Fri Jun 07, 2013 9:25 pm
you know i thought i could get this!!@#$%^&*(thing out of here with no problem but my dreams went down the drain along with my thoughts! I got a 1968 125 hydrostatic
with a broke -n- half drive shaft ? the pin didn't shear the hole shaft did an I'am need-n a little insite here on a possible way of get-n it out without dismantleing it down to a bare frame.The person who invented these riders must of came from kentucky and I'am from ky myself.I'am about tempted to cut a 4"square hole in the top plate above the rear rubber coupler to get it out, but still un certian that will work and then i thought i could loosen the hydro fan slide it foward and angle the shaft downward to one side and then the dred overwhelmed me when i thought of put-n it back in the same way, anyone out there have a better way? I've had this bird for 20 yrs and not a peep out of it untill now
Sat Jun 08, 2013 7:21 am
The easiest way is to loosen the 4 bolts that hold the motor down and slide the motor forward an inch or two. She'll drop right out then. The drive shaft sits in a cup about 1/2", and that's what's holding you up. You don't have to disconnect anything on the engine, just take the 4 mounting bolts out and slide her forward a bit. You'll have to jack up the front of the tractor, to let the axle pivot up and down all the way, to get to the two front mounting bolts, as they're up in the channel where the front axle pivots. A ratcheting wrench works a lot easier than a wratchet and socket, just because of the limited space between the axle and frame. This is MUCH easier than trying to take the rear end out and move it around just because of all the hydro and brake linkage parts, however, if you have that stuff disassembled already, then it's 6 bolts to take the rear end out or slide it back. That would be my 2nd approach.
Regardless, it's not easy on a "Narrow Frame" Cub Cadet. Probably one of the biggest advantages to the "Wide Frame" Cadets (introduced in the 1970s and newere) is the tunnel cover that comes off, just for this reason.
Let me know if you need any parts. I'm pretty sure I've got a drive shaft, and I know I've got a spare hydro pump, both from a Cub Cadet 105, but they're all the same. I've probably got all the linkages and hydro levers around here too. I tore down the 105 and used some parts for the rebuild of a 124, so I have all the hydro stuff around here along with spare frames, grill castings, etc.
Bill - aka Gitractorman
Sat Jun 08, 2013 10:10 am
Bill the pump /trany/ rear end are all in good shape knock on wood,but i might b coming back at you for the drive shaft if the bid don't go through on e-bay so far its at 15.00 plus with no bids but there shipping is high according to post office.Since the shaft is already broke there was no need to move the motor (yet)the drive assy cup on the engine is still intact and in good shape but the remainder of the shaft still needs to b pressed out of cup that sits in the fly wheel four bolt holding socket and yes you where right about the narrow frame being harder than the wide frame.I managed to undo bolts holding the shaft to the rubber flex coupler in rear without knocking out the pin on hydro shaft still intact, my problem is hydro fan on now broke shaft won't let me remove it from frame chassis unless i loosen allen set screws on fan and slide it foward while slide-n shaft backwards and i still don't know if this will work,it seems deck ajustment cross member is stopping me from doing this and by the way thanks for the return advise Sirputtsalot and his ailling steed
Sat Jun 08, 2013 11:16 am
Yea, the fan is a bit tricky and usually they are already broken so people just rip them out without worrying about damaging the fan. I think your approach is probably the best, slide the fan on the shaft until you can get it out. Still may have trouble getting the new one back in and you may actually have to move the engine out of the way to slide the drive shaft straight back. I believe they were assembled from the rear end, drive shaft assembled to the differential/hydro, then the whole thing slid forward into the frame and then mated to the engine. May be the only way to get it back together unfortunately.
Sat Jun 08, 2013 4:37 pm
Bill- hey I did manage to get the shaft out through the front genrator side, and like you said it was easier get-n it out since it was all ready sheared,I know i'am gona have to move the motor a little foward to get the new one back in and its gona be a bit tough get-n the bolts back on the rubber coupler in back, i'll find someway to get my turtle claw fingers up in there some how,i did manage to get the tractor higher off the ground by take-n two cinder blocks and 2 short2"x6"x2' boards for ramps, a come along and a tree,then i backed it up rearend first this way i could remove the boards to make more room underneath, then i floor jacked the front leave-n the come along still hook up so it wouldn't move on me while i was underneath this got the frame up about 2' plenty of room to work, and for those who are have-n the same problem if you disconect the hydro shift linkage next to the (unmounted) fan shroud it gives you just enough room to (wiggel) the shaft/fan an tee bar out through the genrator side front, that is if the shaft is allready sheared if your try-n to get a complete one out to get to the pin then you will have to move the motor foward like you said sirputtsalot and his recovering steed
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