102 progress

[Chris Jones]

I've been working on my 102. I've removed the drive shaft and clutch. I need to replace the teaser spring. The holes in the clutch disk are worn out to about 3 times the size they should be. My neighbor had a great idea to save money on the clutch disk. Using the drive disk with the pins removed as a template drill 3 new holes in the clutch disk between the existing holes for the pins. Great. I'll give it a try.

Also the release bearing, well I think the front has worn so it came off. It looks like a thin washer in front of the bearing now and you can see the balls in the bearing. I think the "washer" used to be fitted to the bearing--the front of the bearing and as the edge wore away it was cut loose from the bearing. I see on the web it is 35-40 bucks. Can't do that. Any ideas?

I've also got to fabricate a new release lever bracket. The lever is good but the holes in the bracket it's pinned to are very bad. I think I can figure out something with this.

Now for steering. It's almost disassembled. Can't get the adjusting plug at the end of the shaft out. Any ideas? I will be buying a new cam follower as this one had lost it's jam nut and was wiggling around bad. Thankfully the threads in the steering lever seem good. The follower's threads are shot as well as it is worn, on all sides, from wiggling around. I'm going to need a new seal for the steering box and probably new bearings inside--haven't been able to get to them yet.

Any tips on any of the above appreciated. I'm on a tight budget.

[Bruce Sanford]

Hi Ghris
I did the same thing with my clutch disk,it workrd out quite well. The disk on my 108 was that way,that is where I got the idea.I had to replace the drive shaft as all the pin holes where out of shape.Especially the one at the back. I had quite a job getting everyhing back in the 102.since I did not want to unbolt the engine. Bruce

[Paul B]

Not much you can do to the throughout bearing except replace it. You have to have one.

The release lever bracket, and the pin that goes through it, and the release lever, are hardened metal. The pin and bracket are still available and not too expensive, but you can make a bracket. I would use a new pin. The release lever is also available. All the parts are available from Cub Cadet

The adjusting plug on the steering box unscrews. It may have a cotter pin through it, or it may just be stuck or have the housing threads mess up. If you have or can borrow a "drag link socket" (like a big flat screw driver blade tip that is used with a ratchet or strong arm/breaker bar), they usuall will come out. The cam follower you will find is probably more expensive than what you think it will be, because it is a low volume, machined, hardened part. The seal and retainer are available new from Cub Cadet.

You might look for another steering box to use as parts or inplace of the one you have. The box is the same for all IH built Cub Cadets except for the Original or first model. The steering shaft length and tube length is different between some model, but the box is the same. A used assembly should be fairly easy to find.

[Chris Jones]

I don't have a clue where I can find a used box are there any places I can order it off the internet--I wish TM Tractor sold them.

The adjusting plug is missing some of the, humm what's the technical term, lugs. As a result of using a punch and hammer to get it to turn 20 years ago before we knew, well had any idea, what we were doing. And yes the case seems to have messed up threads at the top and I can't get the plug down enough to clean the threads with a dremel and can't get it out over them. Is the plug an item I can buy if it's really screwed up when I get it out--because it WILL come out --dead or alive.

[Chris Jones]

Well, the plug is out. But it is no longer usable. the bearings inside were falling out as soon as I removed the steering arm and I found the bearing races were disentigrating. One looks like a flat washer now. both have a spiderweb of cracks across them. One of the plastic pieces with the fingers that go between the balls looks fine the other is mangled. As we discussed the cam follower is unuasable. Also unfortunately, and it might have happened removing the adjusting plug but the threaded part of the case is cracked--might be usable in a pinch--the crack runds down about 1/2 inch then across around the threads about an inch and is starting to open.

I guess it would be a good idea to find a pretty good used steering gear if anyone knows where I can find one. Or if anyone has a lead on a rebuilt unit. I'm going to call my IH dealer in an hour or so to see what options they give me.

[Paul B]

Chris
You need to replace the box.
Go to http://ihregistry.com/cgi-bin/discus/discus.cgi, click on the buying selling link, and then scroll down to the bottom of the list of items posted, and post your list of wanted items. Someone will have them. Might also look around the rest of that site. You will also find some people there that sell used Cub Cadet parts for a living, such as Ray Weaver (cell 717-587-3727). You can also go to eBays search page, http://search.ebay.com/ws/search/AdvSearch?sofindtype=13?ssPageName=STRK:MERLC:004, type in "cub cadet", and it will bring up about 10-12 or more pages of Cub Cadet parts people have for sale/auction. If all else fails, I probably have one, but the tube length may or may not be correct. While yours is out of the tractor, measure the length of the tube from the box to the top (with the collar on the tube), so you know which one you are looking for, provided yout tractor had the correct box/tube in it.

[Chris Jones]

I decided to buy a new one from http://www.ccspecialties.org for $200. I need $80 worth of parts to put mine together and then I need to have the case repaired which I doubt I'll find anyone who would weld the crack for less than $40. Even then I'd have to fix some threads where the plug screws in and run the risk it wouldn't go back together good and not work as well as it should.

I emailed travis@ccspecialties.org on Friday to find out what he nees to know to send the right one but I haven't heard from him yet. I know he has another job so I guess it takes him awhile to get back to folks.

I'm hoping someone here can testify that ccspecialties is a good place to work with.

[Paul B]

Chris
Travis tends to be kinda hard to reach by email. I would rebuild a good used one, rather than buying a new one, specially if funds are tight. I would also compare prices from other sources, including Cub Cadet. CC Specialties has a lot of of very well made replacement parts for items that are no longer available, but for parts that are still available from Cub Cadet, their prices may be higher than a Cub Cadet dealer, if you have one fairly close to you. As far as I know, the new steering box assemblies are replacements for several models, and may not have the same tube length as what you have. You can email me if you have more questions.

[Dave Hull]

I have a good used one for $40 + shipping

Dave Hull

765-426-2555

[Chris Jones]

Dave, the question is how good is the "good" in "good used"? I have a used one, but it turns out it's too used. Also does it have the right shaft length for the 102? I'm not even sure how to measure mine.

Does anyone have Travis of Cub Cadet Specialties phone number? I emailed him over a week ago and again this past Friday. It doesn't leave a good impression of CCSpecialties that he hasn't responded yet.

['Country' Elliott]

Hey Dave...Thought you were movin' son? Are you still in Crossvile? Did your move get delayed? Let me know...THANKS Dave.

[Dave Hull]

Hey Country,
Living in 2 states is tough but that is necessary for now. Have sold about half my cadet tractors and items. Still have 3 originals, a couple 100's, 127, 129, 382H, 1250 parts unit, 109 parts, 107 parts, also Lo-boy 154 parts.

Stop and see me in Cookeville, I am in this weekend.

Dave