Farmall Cub

Read up or take a look at the manuals for the clutch/brake linkage and the set up/adjustment measurements. The problem could be the clutch or the linkage adjustment.

Edit: When you remove the mower deck - remove the mower deck belt.

Steve:

Well we now know what deck you have : - 38-42-48 Pin On pretty sure of that.

Is it just me, or did the long blue stripe fade to green?

Dan,
There were several colors used for the stripe on this series of tractors. The 86 had a gold/orange stripe, the 108/109 had a green stripe, the 128/129 had a red stripe, and the 149/169 tractors had a blue stripe.

When it comes to this clutch I guess I'm going to have to check the box that says 'I do not understand'



Aren't the pressure plates (fig. 5 & 7) supposed to spread apart to unclamp the clutch disc (fig. 6)? They look like they're pinned to the shaft so how are they supposed to move to let the pressure off the disc? I'm afraid to go prying on stuff (much more).

Yes. When you push on the clutch pedal, it pulls back the lever #10, which releases the pressure it was placing on #4 and #20. With the pressure off of the pressure plate #5, the clutch disk, #6 will spin freely between #5 and #7. It's most likely that the clutch disk #6 is rusted to #5 and #7, which is why yours is staying engaged.

If you carefully tpry them apart, I typically clean them on a grinder with a wire wheel on it. Then lay a piece of sand paper down on a flat surface, hold the sand paper in place, and rub the face of the pressure plates on it. This way you can see if it is warped. You'll probably tear up the clutch disk in the process of getting them apart, but they're readily available from a dealer.

Are the three holes on #6 supposed to slide back and forth on the three pins on #8?

Yes and no. The clutch disk is turned by the three dowels sticking out of #8. When the pressure plates push on the clutch disk #6, the disk does move slightly forward/back, and is allowed to float freely on the dowels, so that it can move forward/backward as pressure is applied. The little keeper springs #18 are also called "anti rattle" springs. All that they do is put a little pressure on the clutch disk, to keep it from rattling around on the dowels when there is no pressure on it from the pressure plates.

The pressure plates were rusted to the disc. I was able to free it all up by slowly and gently working a thin putty knife in and around the disc and plates and getting the disc to float freely on the dowels. I had fun taking it for a few spins around the yard showing off to my wife and then parked it for a few minutes. When I came back gasoline was pouring out of the carburater and after all that work trying to get gas to flow into the carb! So I have a new float on order.

In the meantime I've started checking out the mower deck:



All three spindles turn freely. The center one took grease and spins real nice with no noticable play. With the outer two the excess grease came out from under the pulleys instead of working down the shaft and out the bottom so I guess I should try to take those apart.
The deck itself has had a 1/8th plate steel patch on the rear right leaving the back of the skid flopping around loose. A hole drilled and bolt installed will fix that. The rear left could use some holes patched up and that skid is completely missing.

Would it be possible to find a left skid or am I going to have to fabricate something? How about a pair of guide wheels? I assume this once had them. Are they available or am I going to have to resort to even more hillbilly engineerin?

Steve Woods wrote: When I came back gasoline was pouring out of the carburater and after all that work trying to get gas to flow into the carb! So I have a new float on order.

The problem is probably not the float. More than likely it's trash under the needle valve or a needle valve related problem.

Shut off the fuel at the tank. Remove the bottom (bowl) of the carburetor. Open the valve at the fuel tank and let a bit of gas flush past the needle valve. Lift the float gently to see if the fuel flow stops.

Edit: The needle valve not seating is a fairly common problem if the Cub (Kohler) engine has been sitting for some time. Usually the procedure described above solves the problem.

You can hear and feel the gasoline sloshing around inside the old brass float when you shake it. Apparently fresh fuel loosend up years of corrosion on the seam and it started leaking. I had cleaned the needle and seat and they were working just fine but I am going to replace them anyway when I put in the new float...

Steve Woods wrote:You can hear and feel the gasoline sloshing around inside the old brass float when you shake it. Apparently fresh fuel loosend up years of corrosion on the seam and it started leaking. I had cleaned the needle and seat and they were working just fine but I am going to replace them anyway when I put in the new float...

Good. Save the old needle valve and seat. The new ones are neoprene and just my opinion, not worth much.

Well, it seems to be running real good now. She starts right up and purrs real smooth. I just put a new clutch disc in which makes shifting in and out of gear a real pleasure. Next I should probably get some working brakes. I've been reading somewhere here about DIY gluing on McMaster Carr 3/16" material. Is this done because factory OEM brake pads are no longer available or just too expensive? Where would I even window shop a source for new brake pads (if I weren't so broke)?

Steve Woods wrote: Next I should probably get some working brakes. OEM brake pads are just too expensive?

Wow, on the price of a brake pad. I purchase parts Cub Cadets for less money.

Check with the truck repair shops and auto parts stores in your area. Ask who replaces brake linings.

Steve, Do you need brake pads or brake band linings? BigBill found some glue last year and was looking for the name of it for me. If you need linings, McMaster-Carr also has strips that could be glued or riveted on (depending on how it is now).

Bob