cub cadet motor mounts

Tue Dec 14, 2004 9:06 pm

does anyone have the NAPA part number for the rubber bushings
for motor mounts for a 1650 cub cadet?

Sat Dec 18, 2004 6:20 am

Part No: K-5252 (is also available @ Carquest by same number)

Sat Dec 18, 2004 8:50 am

This link ... #POST61385
will take you to a picture of the Moog mounts. They have been recomending using the IH on the bottom and the moog on top.

Sat Dec 18, 2004 9:52 am

The top half of the original rubber mounts are usually still good, use them on the bottom and the Moog rubber parts on the top, and use a flat washer. If you decide to use new mounts from Cub Cadet (pricey), it has been found they work better by tightening the nuts on the bolts until just 1 or 2 threads are showing rather than tightening to the torque values in the instructions.

If all the original top rubbers are not good, I would replace with the new Cub Cadet mounts, and replace them in pairs - both fronts or both rears etc, because they are made with a stiffer or harder material than the originals. You will get more engine vibration from new ones because they are harder, but it will improve with use.

Sat Dec 18, 2004 10:00 pm


This is a site that John *.?-!.* cub owner posted a while back.

I use Cadets to pull large trail mowers to cut ten acres of grass every week.

Every year one of the tractors with the rubber type engine mounts would tear up a clutch due to engine mount fatigue. I posted my issue on the Cadet forums(they suggested) and I installed original IH and as well the NAPA mounts. Every year the same issue, $160.00 for clutch assemblies.

Last winter I was about to give up on the Cadet and remembered a post John made the summer before about Cadet Clutch failures due to fatigue engine mounts.

A man by the name of Brian Miller makes solid engine mounts to take the place of the rubber mounts. Also he builds a heavier clutch plate (next to the bad one in the picture) for a very reasonable price. (Half the cost from IH) I installed the mounts and the clutch assembly last winter and the Cadet went through the summer used by teenage boys without any supervision (I was gone) and no recognized (engine mount) troubles.

You can see in the picture what happens to the clutch when the engine drops down and misaligns with the clutch assembly. Also you can see what the fatigue engine mount (next to the new steel mount in the picture) looks like after a few months of use.

The tractor vibrates much more than before, but I’m not spending my hard earned money on clutches any more.

Brain illustrates the mounts about half way down his web page “Fixing the Drive Clutch Assembly in an IH Cub Cadet”.

I was very satisfied with Brain, prices for his parts and his workmanship.

Jack Fowler

Sun Dec 19, 2004 8:42 pm

When it comes to cadets I know even less than i do on typing. But couldnt you mount on springs? The make some mighty hefty springs, Valve springs in a cub for example. They wind them, cut them to length and grind the ends flat.
Again i don't know about cadets.


Sun Dec 19, 2004 9:30 pm

They say that with enough time, money, welding rod, etc., etc., you can do anything, but in this case, the answer is no, or at least not really practical.

The rubber, engine ISO mounts on a Cub Cadet are as much for noise control as they for vibration, and they are used to mount the engine cradle to the tractor frame. They are used in the series of Cub Cadets commonly known as the Quietline's. The tractors also had hood side covers that enclosed the engine bay, and all cooling air, heat, excess noise, exhaust, and etc., was ducted out through the front grill. The package was developed in part because of some proposed noise/enviromental standards that never came about. When everything is as new, the tractors are much quieter than their predecessor's, but after years of use and wear, the side panels, exhaust enclosure box, hood etc., tend to do quite a bit of rattling.

Sun Dec 19, 2004 10:35 pm

Boy am i glad that I said that I didn't know..I always look at ideas as green baloons. Throw a bunch in the air and keep popping at them and see what is left. Zippo in this case.