It Ran!

Sat Dec 11, 2004 10:18 am

OK, got it to run - for about a minute...

Some of the gas line is so old it was leaking at what I assume is the fuel pump, a small box just below the carb. The throttle was stuck wide open. I freed that up and it should be better. I'm off to the parts store to pick up some fuel line this morning and will try again.

Does anyone know what the points gap should be set at?

Thanks again, everyone!

Sat Dec 11, 2004 11:48 am

Start with points at .020. It's best to set a Kohler with a timining light but that will work to get it unning. There is a Kohler web site that you can download the manual for that engine for free and will tell you how to do the timing. Glad to hear you got fire.

Sat Dec 11, 2004 3:41 pm

Keith...While you're out at the autro parts store...pick up a can of Seafoam. Put about 1 oz. in your gas tank and watch it smooooth out your carb while cleaning away any old varnish in your carb or line. :P

Once you try'll end up using it in every engine you own (EXCEPT FUEL INJECTED ENGINES).

For another tip...Get a plastic container of LUCAS Oil Additive at your auto parts store...ADD about 3 oz. to your oil (carefull NOT TO OVERFILL). You'll find that LUCAS will almost bond to your engine's moving parts and it can actually increase your oil pressure and preserve older engines. :D :D


Sat Dec 11, 2004 3:56 pm

They make a version for fuel injected too, and it also works good to keep injectors clean.

Sat Dec 11, 2004 4:16 pm

Here's the link to the Kohler site.

Sat Dec 11, 2004 10:17 pm

Well, I replaced the fuel line, fired it up and it ran pretty well! I adjusted the points by ear till it sounded pretty good at low and higher RPM. Drove it around the block! Though tthe ride was awfully bumpy until I remembered it still had the tire chains on... duh!

Got the carb linkages freed up nicely. Didn't see Seafoam at the parts store, so I bought another fuel additive to clean the carb. Mixed it with the gas at a pretty high concentration. Hopefully it'll do the trick. It dies when I throttle all the way down, but I haven't replaced the spark plug & wire. Will check the Kohler link to see how to properly set the points.

After lots of screwing around I finally figured out how to attach the snow thrower. My wife ordered pizza and it arrived before I had a chance to figure out how to get the drive belt on. Missing a couple cotter pins and washers; nothing Home Depot can't help me out with! Now I just have to wait for the first big snow!

Thanks again!


Sat Dec 18, 2004 4:36 pm

Hey Keith...Glad to hear you're up & runnin' :wink: ! The Seafoam should be available at any NAPA Store in your area :) . The points are always adjusted at top-dead-center. With your points cover off...turn your engine front PTO clockwise (slowly) until you see the points open. Adjust them at this point by unscrewing the small set screw. If you have a feeler guage for.025 setting that should probably do it! Re-tighten the set screw...turn engine by hand, slowly again and double check gap. If it's o.k. replace cover and start engine...LET US KNOW HOW IT GOES :wink: !!!

Sat Dec 18, 2004 4:40 pm

Hey Keith...Just another thought...Replace your spark plug with a NEW one and replace the plug wire to the coil as well. For the few dollars they will cost...they wil probably make a world of difference in your Cub Cadet's performance.

Sat Dec 18, 2004 5:37 pm

The Kohler point gap should be .020, but you may find some will run better anywhere from .018 to .022. The plug gap is .025

Tue Dec 28, 2004 9:54 am

It's running pretty well. Got my first chance to try the snowblower Christmas night on 1.5 inches of snow. The snow thrower lasted about 30 feet before breaking a drift pin. Managed to use it as a plow to get the rest of the sidewalks cleared.

Now I have to figure out what is binding making the pin snap. Also not sure how to correctly adjust the belt tension for the snow thrower. There are 4 bolts on the front and also some kind of adjustment on the side. Anyone have a clue?


Sat Jan 01, 2005 6:42 pm

The entire lower portion of the drive pulley should move up and down to adjust the belt tension. Loosen the four bolts, adjust it and then snug them up. It may take a little fooling with to get this tractor fit again, but once it is, you will love it.


Keeps breaking drift pin

Wed Jan 05, 2005 10:06 am

We got about 1.5 inches of snow last night, so I got up bright and early this morning and tried the snow thrower again. This time the drift pin lasted about 100 feet before shearing.

The drift pin is after the right angle drive, past all the universal joints, just before the chain and sprocket going to the auger. When the pin is broken, I can spin the auger and it seems as free as it could possibly be. Chain tension seems good, just the slightest bit of slack, and I wasn't moving forward very fast at all when throwing snow. When it's running with the drift pin intact, there is quite a racket comig from the auger assembly. Any ideas? We're supposed to get another 6-10 inches of snow before it's done tomorrow morning, and I have 1 drift pin left. Please help!!!

Wed Jan 05, 2005 10:31 am

Keith, it sounds like the auger must be hitting on something. Is there a lot of slop or end-play in the auger shaft? Can you see signs of rubbing or contact between the auger and housing?

Wed Jan 05, 2005 5:16 pm

Keith...Have you checked to see that the auger bearings on either side of the auger are good? If those bearings are shot, or if one side is bad, it could create enough friction (when the added load of snow comes into play) to shear the drift pin (because the bearing is binding). There shouldn't be a "lot of racket" when your snow blower is engaged and everything is in adjustment. Check it out...and GOOD LUCK!

Fri Jan 07, 2005 9:56 am

There is no slop in the bearings in any direction. While trying to clear the 9.5 ninches we got Wednesday, it broke two shear pins, and then something else broke. Will look and see what it is tomorrow. I suspect it's the key on the pully below the PTO. It's either that or the right angle drive.

Do you think it's possible that the bearings spin freely when I spin it by hand, but at a higher speed and/or under load they bind? I'm going to remove the bearings this weekend and look at them. I'm hoping they're standard bearings rather than something I have to order from Case-IH.

Happy New Year!