Red Series 1282 Stored for 15 Years

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Red Series 1282 Stored for 15 Years

Postby Keith Thompson » Thu Dec 02, 2004 2:17 pm

I just got my hands on a red, 1985 Series 1282 Tractor. It has been in storage for 15 years. It has a snowblower attachment, which I'm hoping to use to clear the snow for my townhouse association, as well as the mower deck.

I doubt whether anyone did anything to it prior to storage.Can anyone give me a hint as to what kind of problems I can expect after improper storage for this period of time??

Also, I'm told it was having a charging problem when it was "retired". They replaced the battery, and that's about it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated
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Postby Ken (48 Cub) » Thu Dec 02, 2004 2:45 pm

Keith, I have recently pick up a 1282 also. Check out this post:

http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewto ... light=1282

Change the oil - 2 quarts of 30 wt.
Change the hytrans fluid - 1 1/2 gallons.

Maybe the tires for dry rot but that's should be all.
Ken, Annie the '48 Cub & 1282 Cub Cadet.

I think we gotter if'n she don't kick, Andy Griffith.
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Postby Cub-Bud » Thu Dec 02, 2004 3:16 pm

Don't forget about the carb and gas tank. If it was stored without draining the tank and carb, you will have trouble there. Both may need to be removed and cleaned. Probably wouldn't hurt to replace the air filter and spark plug, too. 8)
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Postby Keith Thompson » Thu Dec 02, 2004 3:32 pm

Thanks for your prompt replies.

The gas gauge says "E". Don't know if it evaporated or was run dry. Can I just remove the carb and soak it in Gumout or will I have to disassemble it and clean jets and floats manually?

I know you're supposed to pull the spark plug and squirt some oil in the cylinder before storing an engine. I'm sure this wasn't done. Is it likely I'll need the cylinder walls honed, rings replaced, etc? Haven't tried to turn the engine manually yet.

I can't wait to get this old tractor running!

Can't beat the price - got it for free!
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Postby Cub-Bud » Thu Dec 02, 2004 3:56 pm

Take the top of the tank and smell.....if you smell "old gas", chances are the system will need to be cleaned. To properly clean the carb, it will need to be dis-assembled and soaked in cleaner or CHEMDIP.

Once it is started, check the compression on the cylinder(s). If the rings are stuck, chances are it will be hard to start or not start at all.
"Never forget where it is you come from, or you may find yourself someplace you don't want to be"

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Postby Keith Thompson » Thu Dec 02, 2004 4:34 pm

I was thinking of pulling the plug and squirting some penetrating oil in there and letting it sit for a while... what do you think?

Will post a picture of me sitting on my new Cub if/when I get it running!
I can't wait!

thanks again...
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Postby beaconlight » Fri Dec 03, 2004 4:41 pm

Some of the things I have read say to put a table spoon ful of oil in each cylinder for engines that have been in long storage. They also say to put 1 or 2 in before also. Of course it is too late for that.

Bill
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1282 Cub Cadet

Postby 'Country' Elliott » Fri Dec 03, 2004 6:49 pm

KEITH...Did you try replacing the battery (or charging it)...putting in NEW gas (with about 2 oz. of Seafoam in it) and new oil & a new plug and check the points and try starting it up?

Even though Cubs & Cub Cadets sit for awhile...you'll be amazed at how fast they can come back to life with very little attention. If after you try this..and you still get no results...you may still have additional work to do on the carb to get fuel into the cylinder.
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Postby Bruce Sanford » Fri Dec 03, 2004 8:57 pm

HI Keith
Well I am certainly no expert.But an engine that has been setting for 15 years.I would not try to start right away. I would drain the oil and replace
it.Then I would pull the plug and put some oil in the cylinder let it sit for a couple of days.After that see if you can turn it over slowly by hand. Over the years condensation alone may have caused the rings to rust to the cylinder walls. Just my two cents worth. GoodLuck! :)
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Postby 'Country' Elliott » Sat Dec 04, 2004 8:24 am

Hey Keith...Bruce is right..but I was making the assumption that your engine is not stuck...but FREE. If it's stuck, I would suggest removing the spark plug and spraying a liberal amount of KROIL into the top of the piston. KROIL is amazing stuff...it desolves rust and corrosion build up and carbon...and it seeps down between the cylinder walls and into the rings and will free them. I've used KROIL successfully on all types of rusted on bolts, nuts and shafts...ALL WITH COMPLETE SUCCESS! You can get KROIL on line at KANOLABS.COM in Nashville, TN...GOOD LUCK on your project!
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Good News!

Postby Keith Thompson » Thu Dec 09, 2004 9:20 pm

Sprayed some really good penetrating oil in the cylinder Sunday. On Wednesday, I pulled the plug and turned it over by hand. Felt smooth as could be! That's encouraging!

My front tires were flat and popped off the rims. The local auto mechanic I've been using for the last 12 years popped 'em back on and filled 'em up for no charge. Guess my loyalty to local business paid off there!

The voltage regulator and brake return spring should be here tomorrow. Hopefully will turn the key for the first time in 15 years this weekend. Keep your fingers crossed for me!

Best wishes - Keith Thompson
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Postby beaconlight » Thu Dec 09, 2004 9:39 pm

Only thing i see that may need looking at is corrosion on the points. You may have to clean them.

Bill
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Postby 'Country' Elliott » Thu Dec 09, 2004 10:16 pm

Hey Keith...We'll ALL be keeping a good thought for you...BUT, I've just got a REALLY GOOD FEELING ABOUT THIS ONE...I believe you're gonna have the BIGGEST :lol: SMILE on your face this weekend that no one can take off :D !
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1971 JD 112 Garden Tractor
1928 Economy Hit & Miss Engine
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Postby Keith Thompson » Fri Dec 10, 2004 7:04 am

Points???? Does this thing have points? It's a single cylinder Kohler 12 horse engine. Where would the points be?

Thanks again, and thanks for the good thoughts!

keith
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Postby 'Country' Elliott » Fri Dec 10, 2004 7:59 am

Keith...on the Kohler's you'll find a small, roughly 3" vertical cap (with screws at each end, located on the lower left front of the engine block. Remove the cover and you'll find the points. You can clean them with either a point file, or a piece of emory cloth. The odds are the old points and condenser will operate fine, once the points are cleaned and re-gapped. They may work without having to re-gap them...if you don't file off too much....REMEMBER, you just want to lighly scuff them up to make an electrical contact :D .

You may decide to just replace the old set with a new set. Don't forget to replace the condenser too :wink: .

We'll wait to hear all the good news this weekend 8) !!
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Brinly Cultivator
Brinly #8 Moldboard Plow
1971 JD 112 Garden Tractor
1928 Economy Hit & Miss Engine
1927 David Bradley "Little Wonder" Feed Grinder
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