Cog Belt on 38" mower deck

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Dennis
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Cog Belt on 38" mower deck

Postby Dennis » Tue Jun 29, 2004 8:57 pm

What is the best way to remove it? Manual only tells me how to install it... I don't want to damage it during removal.
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Bruce Sanford
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Postby Bruce Sanford » Wed Jun 30, 2004 5:59 pm

Dennis
There should be two belts the top one goes around your blade pulleys.From the front you will see the spring loaded idler arm pulley.Pull it toward you and that will slacken the belt to remove it. If you want to remove the drive pully belt,there are two adjusting nuts on the front lower bumper.You should be able to slacken them and remove that belt.You have the take the top one off to remove the bottom one.I just looked at mine that is the way I would try it.Good luck. 8) :)

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Postby Paul B » Wed Jun 30, 2004 8:22 pm

Remove the right belt pulley shield and you should be able to slide the cogged belt up off the the pulley. Remember that the blades have to be at a 90 degree angle to each other when the cogged belt is reinstalled.

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Dennis
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Posts: 3260
Joined: Sat Feb 01, 2003 9:53 pm
Zip Code: 64075
Tractors Owned: 1947 Farmall Cub
104 Cub Cadet
Cub Cadet Original
Circle of Safety: Y
Twitter ID: @farmallcubcom
Location: MO, Oak Grove

Postby Dennis » Wed Jun 30, 2004 9:39 pm

Paul B wrote:Remove the right belt pulley shield and you should be able to slide the cogged belt up off the the pulley. Remember that the blades have to be at a 90 degree angle to each other when the cogged belt is reinstalled.


That is one of the reasons I need to remove the cog belt (blades out of alignment) and also I'm painting the deck. The manual says to line up the blades with the arrows and slip the belt on and turn until it seats itself. No mention of how to remove it without having to mess with the tension adjustment and not break or stretch the belt to get it off?

I'm sure there is a simple way to do it, I'm just brain dead on this one right now... :? This is where I need some a wisdom transplant from George W :!:
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Postby Bruce Sanford » Wed Jun 30, 2004 9:59 pm

Dennis
If you are going to remove to paint the biggest concern is timing the blades for assembly for a overlap cut.Count how many turns for removing the nuts on the idler and write them down,it is just a matter of tension for the belts, I did not mention the pully covers because they are not on mine at the present time 8) :)

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Postby Paul B » Fri Jul 02, 2004 6:27 pm

Bruce
The deck he is talking about is on a Cub Cadet Original model, or possibly a model 70 with the early deck, and is a two bladed, timed deck. It does not have an idler pulley on the deck, and does not have the tension bolt or springs on the mule drive pulleys like the other model Cub Cadet decks. The mule drive pulleys are tightened by sliding the shaft they are on in a slot and tightening the nuts on the end of the shaft. The engine does not have a PTO clutch to engage the deck, but the deck itself has clutch that engages the blades - and after years of use and wear, it does not always completely disengage them.

Bruce Sanford
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Postby Bruce Sanford » Sun Jul 04, 2004 11:41 am

Dennis and Paul B
Well I guess I should pay closer attention.Sorry about hat :oops: :)


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