Carbide Blades

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moparado
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Carbide Blades

Postby moparado » Sat Apr 28, 2007 8:53 am

Last Spring when i needed to purchase a new set of blades for my deck, i decided to spend a little extra and try carbide tipped blades. Long story short, they weren't worth the extra money IMO. Having said that, they required only one sharpening during the mowing season as compared to 2 or 3 with steel blades. I have sandy soil with numerous 6" to 8" mole hills to plow through which takes a toll on blades and there is no carbide on the ends of the blades which allows them to 'feather' same as the steel blades. In addition, i've got about 2 acres to mow.
Curious if anyone finds the extra cost of carbide blades are worth it.

barn_cub
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Postby barn_cub » Sun Apr 29, 2007 1:31 pm

I too, have sandy soil--eats blades up quick. Rather than pay the price for carbide-tipped blades, I buy hard surfacing stick welder rods and hard surface the backs of the cutting section. This allows the softer metal on the top to wear, leaving the harder backing--sort of self sharpens. Just have to keep from burning through the blade as you hard surface. With a stick welder, the arc must be longer than when doing regular welding--you really just need to melt the rod and the base metal together--penetrating very little.
Barn_cub
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moparado
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Postby moparado » Tue May 01, 2007 4:49 pm

Hey barn_cub thats an idea worth trying! :wink:
I've heard of doing this for plow blades but never thought of doing it for mower blades. Now i've got to see if i can find some of those hard-surfacing welding rods!

I assume the bead is parallel to the cutting edge and if so about what distance should the bead be from the edge?

barn_cub
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Postby barn_cub » Wed May 02, 2007 9:56 pm

The rods are pricey, but some welding supply places will sell them by each. NAPA carries them here in a one # pack.
When you get some rods, practice on an old blade first! At first you probably will burn through the blade. Lower your amps and stay away from the edge. Hold a long arc--you want a puddle rather than a bead. Melt just enough of the blade material to get the hard surfacing material to blend in. Try to deposit equal amounts on each end of the blade and check for balance before mounting on the mower. By the way--do this at your own risk---I cannot accept responsibility for your work--just telling you what I do.
Barn_cub
Cub herd, 2 Farmall A's, 2 AC's, 1 Ford, 1 JD

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grumpy
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Postby grumpy » Thu May 03, 2007 9:23 am

I've never used the carbide tipped blades but I think I would shy away from them due to using carbides in the machine shop. They are tough as all get out but couldn't take any kind of shock and would fall apart. I have a problem with rocks and would think they wouldn't hold up very good for me. my $.02. Grump
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