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How strong is a cub cadet?

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BigBill
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How strong is a cub cadet?

Postby BigBill » Sat Mar 17, 2007 5:25 am

One of my wifes co workers told her about how he graded his yard with a cub cadet with a snowplow/dozer blade. I was wondering how strong is a cub cadet? I'm redoing my driveway andf changing the pitch but there are some tight spots were my 154 cub can't fit. I was thinking of taking my cub cadet 70 and put the snowplow/chains on it and trying it rather than shoveling which i really can't do. Has anyone ever done grading with your cadets?

I also notice that there are stronger clutch springs for pulling with cadets they come in light, medium and heavy duty strengths. Has anyone ever had a problem with there clutch spring being too light were it can pull thru the clutch making it slip? I'm asking this incase there is a problem with it i would like to install a stronger spring now before i have problems. It seems to work ok right now but once it goes to work it may change.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.

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Postby Rudi » Sat Mar 17, 2007 6:41 am

Bill:

I used to do that kind of stuff with my Roper built Craftsman. A Cub Cadet although not a bulldozer can do the job from what I have seen and heard.

Common sense should prevail though. Small bites for small tractors.. leave the heavy duty stuff to the big boys. However for close work around the house, a properly fitted blade (that is why IH designed them to fit a CC) on a CC and some smarts will go a long way to saving your back..
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Postby gitractorman » Sat Mar 17, 2007 7:46 am

Bill,
You will be happily surprised by the Cadet. They will push LOOSE materials all day long. Grading small gravel and tilled soil is a piece of cake. Traction is usually the only problem, so weights, chains, lug tires, etc., can help with that. The Cadet will not dig, or move really heavy soils like clay or big stone, but it is mostly due to lack of weight and traction than lack of power.

The construction of the snow blade for the cadets (or any snow blade) is meant to utilize the weight of material it is pushing to hold the blade down on the driveway. Knowing this will help you out a bit when pushing stone or soil, because the blade will want to dig. You can still move that material, you just need to be contious of how the blade wants to work, and keep up-pressure on the blade, so that it won't dig in. Moving small amounts at a time will be much easier than trying to push a blade full of stone.

I used to move my 3000 pound Sea Ray boat around with my Cub Cadet 149, and the only problem I had was traction. I never had a problem moving the boat, even through the lawn where the boat trailer tires sunk in a bit. I would not recommend doing this with a Cadet, but they will do it.

As for the heavier clutch springs, I have never fooled around with them. I also have never had a problem with a clutch on a cadet. They either work or they don't. If they slip, and you don't catch it, it will be junk really fast. Whatever you do, don't slip the clutch.

Good luck,
Bill
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Postby Paul B » Sat Mar 17, 2007 7:48 am

Yes a Cub Cadet will do the grade work you want. If your stock clutch is in good shape and properly adjusted, the stock clutch spring is all you need. If it is slipping as it is, I would replace the clutch disc and true up the face of the pressure plates and still use the stock spring. If the spring seems weak replace it with a new stock one. A heavy pulling spring will not make up for a worn clutch disc and or warped/pitted pressure plates. Your leg would get rather tired using the heavy spring with the amount of clutching you will be doing when grading in close quarters.

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Postby BigBill » Sat Mar 17, 2007 2:23 pm

I'm hoping to use my tractors pushing dirt/gravel while the spring thaw is happening while its soft and loose. So far the 154 is piling it up out of the way and the pitch is perfect. I can see the water draining away from the house now rather than going towards it. If the CC can take care of the smaller spots i'm good to go and i can save some time and $$.
Thanks for your help. BigBill
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.

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Postby Rudi » Sat Mar 17, 2007 2:25 pm

Bill:

Just take your time and small bites... :!: :roll: :wink: :D Keep us posted..Imageor two would be nice
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Postby junkman1946 » Sat Mar 17, 2007 3:27 pm

Bill As far as your clutch spring the stock one should do well for any yard work. The "pulling springs" are used for severe circumstances, such as a 3700# static sled or a 10,000# transfer sled. My experience with the grader blade is you have no fine control on downpressure. Do the rough work pushing. Do the finish work backwards backblading. A little time and patience-youll be amazed. Frank
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Rudi
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Postby Rudi » Sat Mar 17, 2007 8:06 pm

Frank:

Back-blanding is another term for sharpening the cutting edge Image Image, and is a valuable skill to learn.

I know all I learned on the TD7/8 will come in handy this summer with Ellie :roll: 8) :lol:
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