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Bad starter?

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Findoggy
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Bad starter?

Postby Findoggy » Sat Dec 30, 2006 2:52 pm

I got a free 1250 several months back and was told by the PO that the engine was stuck. After speaking with my uncle, I took a pair of vice grips to the drivetrain and turned in a clockwise motion. The starter was hung up (for lack of a better term). After it was freed, the starter and drivetrain would spin when the key was turned (previously there was just a clicking noise). However, even with the battery fully charged (and I checked voltage after charging), the starter spins slower and slower with each turn of the key. Another thing I noted is that there doesn't appear to be any spark when I take out the plug and turn the tractor over while placing the plug next to the frame. Any ideas on where to proceed from here? Thanks for any and all help. I am a mechanical novice.

Findoggy

P.S. Appears that the ISO mounts are also shot on the engine.

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Snotzalot
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Postby Snotzalot » Sat Dec 30, 2006 3:11 pm

Give the battery a full charge before you tear into anything. Then try cranking again. If the battery is low you most likely won't get a spark.

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Findoggy
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Postby Findoggy » Sat Dec 30, 2006 3:17 pm

Snotzalot,
I checked charge on the battery before attempting to start it and reading was 12.3volts. After repeated attempts at starting, it still checked out at 11.7 volts.
Findoggy

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Postby Jim Becker » Sat Dec 30, 2006 3:22 pm

What was the voltage while you were cranking? It still sounds a lot like a bad battery.

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Findoggy
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Postby Findoggy » Sat Dec 30, 2006 3:26 pm

Jim,
I didn't check voltage while cranking. Electricity is definitely not one of my stronger points, so please bear with this question. If the charge on the battery is normal while inactive, what would lead you to think that the battery is bad from my previous post? I want to understand what may be wrong with my tractor and/or battery. Thanks for the education.
Findoggy

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Findoggy
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Postby Findoggy » Sat Dec 30, 2006 4:36 pm

Jim,
Voltage dropped to 5 while cranking engine. So, that seems pretty low to me. What's that tell me in regard to my battery? Thanks,
Findoggy

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Postby Jim Becker » Sat Dec 30, 2006 5:30 pm

Seems low. Battery probably can't handle the current requirements for starting any more. Try another battery or jump it to see if it starts OK.

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Postby wdeturck » Sat Dec 30, 2006 6:16 pm

Sorry for the double post
Last edited by wdeturck on Sat Dec 30, 2006 6:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
The Geezer from IHregistry.com which crashed and is now Cub Cadet Collectors.

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wdeturck
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Postby wdeturck » Sat Dec 30, 2006 6:17 pm

To under stand electricity from a battery source is simple but you need to know the condition of the battery when charged and should be checked under load. Most places that sell batteries can do that. A bad cell in a battery usually doesn't show up with a voltmeter. Very important to battery operation is good groundS ant good clean connections on + and starter. That starter doesn't sound like it's good. If you have a jumper battery pack(I can't live without on) just use that connected to the Starter terminal and make sure the engine cranks at a good speed. You will have to get it turning correctly before worrying about spark.
The Geezer from IHregistry.com which crashed and is now Cub Cadet Collectors.

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Postby Eugene » Sat Dec 30, 2006 6:53 pm

Findoggy wrote:Voltage dropped to 5 while cranking engine. What's that tell me in regard to my battery?


It's probably a weak/bad battery as others have suggested. A drop of 5 volts is excessive = 7 volts during cranking - starter is probably all right.

Check the fluid level in the battery cells, clean up all connections, recharge the battery - trickle charge overnight. Then try to restart with the aid of a jumper cable. No use buying a battery until you find out what else is wrong with the machine.

Eugene

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Postby magnumpi » Sat Dec 30, 2006 7:08 pm

Fin: I'd take a close look at the cables ! Often corrosion creeps under the cable sheath so I'd cut it back off the connector and maybe cut the molded connector off and get some bolt-on ones at the farm store. I just did that on my pickup and the starter has just about spun the 318 out of the engine compartment. Craig

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Snotzalot
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Postby Snotzalot » Sat Dec 30, 2006 10:06 pm

Next step is to jump it from a known good battery like your car. It sounds like a bad battery. Shouldn't drop below 9V and that's pretty low too.

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Findoggy
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Postby Findoggy » Sat Dec 30, 2006 10:23 pm

Thank you all, I'll try jumping it in the AM...assuming I get time with the holiday and my family obligations.

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Postby junkman1946 » Sat Dec 30, 2006 10:52 pm

Iam working from memory here. 12 horse Kohler battery ignition ? If that is correct keep reading, if not consider this the idle ramblings of an old fool.. Kohler starters were not known for there durability in extended cranking situations. Pull the plug and crank it- it should fly. Also the ignition timing on K series Kohlers was controled by contact point setting. I think 20thous.- Wider settings advance timing- tighter settings retard timing. But alas... your not getting any spark. Probably dirty points. Put in a New set. From my experience with Kohlers when you file the points you must affect the integrity of the contact material cause after that they corrode again almost overnight. One more thing I dont remember if that particular engine has a compression release. If it does and its not working this could be your cranking problem. Hope I didnt confuse you Frank
1948 Cub F,1962 Original,1971 C.C.model86, WheelHorse and C.C. mini pulling tractors, C.C. models1450 , 682,106,123, Ariens GT17 with loader,Jacobsen Powermax loader and backhoe 8 more Cub Cadets in the shed waiting to go under the knife and spray gun.

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Findoggy
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Postby Findoggy » Sun Dec 31, 2006 8:56 am

Junkman,
I will check the points, thank you. That did cross my mind. As far as the compression release, I don't know. I'm not even familiar with what that means. I'll have to check into it. Thank you and have a nice New Year!
Findoggy


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