Hello, I was mowing around my pond last night and I developed a viberation, well this morning it went away. I blew the drive shaft out of her. It took two control rods with it. The shifter rod is bent. But if I make it streight again it hits the deck height pointer. Is there a slight bend in this rod? The brake rod is also bent. This rod brings the tranny to neutral when the left brake is applied. The cast piece from the brake tube is also broken. Is the brake rod streight or does it also have a bend?
The rubber couplings both ripped. It looks as if I should replace the two pilot bushings. But on the enging side the adapter the bolts on with four bolts to the engine looks like it has a collar. That collar looks worn. I'm wondering if I need to change that adapter as it looks to me the collar isn't doing any thing.
Is these drive shaft rubbers and pilot bushings available online?Thanks Brian
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Blow my drive shaft on my 1872
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You might talk to Ken Updike at Carter and Greunewald, http://www.cngco.com/ , they are a Cub Cadet dealer along with Case IH or CNH and others. The 1872 was built by MTD, and even though it is similar to a 982, I am not that familar with it. You can also go to http://www.savillesequip.com/parts.asp and follow the links for parts and look up the parts breakdown for what you need. If you add them to a shopping cart, you can then check the prices, and then delete the shopping cart if you don't want to buy the parts. I have bought parts from both places, and both are good to deal with. Another good dealer I recommend is Scott Madson, Madson's Service, Inc, 114 S 2nd Ave, St. Nazianz, WI 54232, 920-773-2661.
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- 10+ Years
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If it makes you feel any better, even though it was built in 1988-89, it is basically the same as the IH designed 982 except it has a 18hp Kohler Magnum twin rather than the 19.9 hp Onan that is in the 982. Cub Cadet Corp (MTD) built several different model numbers of the same basic Super Garden Tractor - various engines and hydraulic equipment configurations as standard equpment, but the same basic tractor.
- R Bedell
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DoOver:
Sounds like the root of the problem was age and the rubber Flex Discs.
I had a small vibration in my 784. I installed four new Flex Discs and the motor Flange Adaptor. After I done that, I sure could notice a big difference. It smoothed the tractor right out.
Sounds like you have quite a repair issue here, but like Paul said, all the parts should be available through your local Cub Dealer or the sources he mentioned.
Sounds like the root of the problem was age and the rubber Flex Discs.
I had a small vibration in my 784. I installed four new Flex Discs and the motor Flange Adaptor. After I done that, I sure could notice a big difference. It smoothed the tractor right out.
Sounds like you have quite a repair issue here, but like Paul said, all the parts should be available through your local Cub Dealer or the sources he mentioned.
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- R Bedell
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Well I pulled the drive shaft flange off the engine. There was a ball inside but it was just floating, it wasn't attached to any thing. Does the ball bushing fit in the flange or the hole in the flywheel? Also the engine is loose. It seems like only one bolt is left. Are the engine bolts to the frame nut/bolt combo's or is the bottom of the engine hole's tapped to accept bolts? Thanks Brian
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- Fordlords
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This thread sure has me paranoid! I saw a set of new driveshaft coupling disks was only $30 from Wright's and I ordered them. Looks like a small price to pay compared to if the driveshaft decides to cut loose, and they are easy to replace. I noticed the shaft on my 682 looks to run a bit off-centered at the engine end, I was just thinking that was due to the flange attaching to the Honda engine with only 3 of the bolts. (SEW guarantees this gives no problems though, and it does not seem to vibrate through the tractor.) The new flanges appear to be made of rubber, the original ones still on my 682 look to be made of a rough leather-like material?? Anyway, they are going in in the trash. Thx for the heads up!
-Fordlords-
-Fordlords-
To the man, there is no such thing as, "Too much tractor!"
Honda Powered 1980 IH Cub Cadet 682
Honda Powered 1980 IH Cub Cadet 682
- R Bedell
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Brian:
The motor should NOT be loose. The motor is bolted to the engine plate with:
(4) 710-0520 Bolts, 3/8-16 x 1.5" Grd 5
(4) 712-3005 Nuts, 3/8-16 Nylock Grd 5
The motor is elevated by (4) spacers #750-3009 that goes between the motor and plate.
The motor plate is mounted to the frame with:
(6) 710-0514 Bolts, 3/8-16 x 1.0" Grd 5
(6) 736-0185 Washers (I believe these are lock washers)
Although I didn't have a drive shaft come loose, when I first got my 784, I also had a loose motor. I ended up installing all new Motor bolts and replaced the missing spacers.
The motor should NOT be loose. The motor is bolted to the engine plate with:
(4) 710-0520 Bolts, 3/8-16 x 1.5" Grd 5
(4) 712-3005 Nuts, 3/8-16 Nylock Grd 5
The motor is elevated by (4) spacers #750-3009 that goes between the motor and plate.
The motor plate is mounted to the frame with:
(6) 710-0514 Bolts, 3/8-16 x 1.0" Grd 5
(6) 736-0185 Washers (I believe these are lock washers)
Although I didn't have a drive shaft come loose, when I first got my 784, I also had a loose motor. I ended up installing all new Motor bolts and replaced the missing spacers.
- R Bedell
- 10+ Years
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As a added Note:
The rubber flex discs should be inspected periodically. They do wear out with time. Inspection should included observation for disformity, egg shaped mounting holes, and deteriation of the rubber material itself. If you have good discs, a good motor flange, and everything is tight & secure, there is virtually no vibration in the drive line.
The rubber flex discs should be inspected periodically. They do wear out with time. Inspection should included observation for disformity, egg shaped mounting holes, and deteriation of the rubber material itself. If you have good discs, a good motor flange, and everything is tight & secure, there is virtually no vibration in the drive line.
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It took me a month!
Well I'm back up and running again!. I made a big mistake by buying the parts local. But now I know who better for next time. I want to thank every one who responded, that made the job very streight forward. I think the original problem was missing motor mount bolts. Thats what caused all my problems. The tractor runs very smooth now. Thanks again Brian
- Fordlords
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Great to hear you got 'er up and running again Brain. When I removed the original KT17 Kohler from my 682 which uses the same bolt-spacer setup as the 1872, I have to say those bolts were not much of a challenge to loosen where I expected them to be very difficult- not much more than a heavy finger-tight after 26 years of the KT banging away. I bought many parts online from CNG and Wrights that even with shipping saved me many $ over local dealer prices where you walk through the door unless they know you they azzume you are Joe Stupid.
Got the set of new driveshaft rubbers from Wrights for my 682, just gotta get out from in front of the TV watching hockey playofffs to put them on before the grass gets too tall or the thing breaks apart before I forget
-Fordlords-
Got the set of new driveshaft rubbers from Wrights for my 682, just gotta get out from in front of the TV watching hockey playofffs to put them on before the grass gets too tall or the thing breaks apart before I forget
-Fordlords-
To the man, there is no such thing as, "Too much tractor!"
Honda Powered 1980 IH Cub Cadet 682
Honda Powered 1980 IH Cub Cadet 682
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