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Another clutch problem

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hooterville hillbilly
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Mar 22, 2006 6:29 pm
Location: mt. sterling ky

Another clutch problem

Postby hooterville hillbilly » Thu Mar 23, 2006 8:19 am

Sorry but this is probably the 100th time its been asked. I'm trying to replace the clutch in my 126. I have the new plates and disc, the new heavy spring. I can't figure out where to start. Do I knock the pins out of the coupler to remove the drive shaft to start? Do I have to remove the engine and work backward, and how have you found is the best way to get the roll pins out. Mine are so tight that no amount of pounding with a hammer and roll pin punch will move them. Where can I find a shop manual to cover this tractor? Hope you'all can help!
I've been reading your site for a while, great stuff. Finally joined!

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Paul B
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 2338
Joined: Sat Apr 10, 2004 6:12 pm
Zip Code: 40218
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: KY, Louisville

Postby Paul B » Thu Mar 23, 2006 10:55 am

You can order manuals (Operator, Engine Service, and Chassis Service) from Cub Cadet Corp, a Cub Cadet dealer, or Binder Books ( http://www.binderbooks.com ).

First, I would recommend you get a chassis service manual before trying to drive any of the spirol pins out of the driveshaft, other than the pin that connects the driveshaft to the input shaft of the transmission. The main spring is under pressure and can cause serious injury if that pressure is not controlled by some mechanical means when driving the pins out. The service manual shows this procedure better than I can describe it, and it should be followed.

Basically, I would recommend you remove the engine, then remove the clutch/driveshaft assembly from the tractor so it can be put in a fixture or vice to disassemble it. You can put the driveshaft in a vice, with the rear of the main spring tightly against the jaws of the vice, tighten the vice securely enough the shaft can not move, then drive the spirol pin at the rear of the spring out, and then very slowly start opening the vice enough to let the spring expand. As it does, the shaft is going to move in the vice (usually rather abruptly)and you want to keep the vice jaws tight enough to control that movement - in other words keep the vice tight enough the spring can't "shoot the shaft out of the vice". If you open the vice to quickly, the spring has enough force that parts are going to fly. Remember, you are going to have to compress this spring when this all goes back together.

To drive the rear coupling pin out of the driveshaft to remove the shaft assembly, you need to solidly block or support the coupling on the top side, between the coupling and the frame, to not only prevent damage to the transmission input shaft bearing, but to prevent any movement or flex when the pin is struck (if it flexes you can beat on it all day and it will not come ouy, it has to be solid).

It is possible to remove the componets with the driveshaft still in the tractor, and I will explain it the best I can, but I do not recommend it for someone not totally familar with the clutch/driveshaft assembly and the spring pressure and danger involved . Remove the engine. Lock the clutch/brake pedal down so that the throwout arm has the clutch released/disengaged and the spring compressed, then with a solid support under the front end of the driveshaft you can drive out the two spirol pins in the pressure plates and remove them, and then slowly release the clutch pedal to allow most of the spring pressure to release. There will still be some pressure on the throwout arm. Then back off the adjusting nut for the clutch adjustment, and then remove the pivot pin for the throw out arm - still some pressure there, and then remove the other parts on the driveshaft. Keep track of how they come off to get them back on in correct order. If the little short (1" or so) teaser spring is broken, be sure to replace it for a smoother clutch engagement.

I still recommend you get the manual, and follow the directions in it, because even though it is a fairly easy job, it is dangerous and can (and has) cause injury.

hooterville hillbilly
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Mar 22, 2006 6:29 pm
Location: mt. sterling ky

Postby hooterville hillbilly » Sat Apr 01, 2006 3:37 pm

Paul thanks for the help. I did manage to get the clutch out and back in just fine. You are right, that spring will really go if you let it loose!
No just kidding. I got it out just fine and used a porta-power with an adapter I made to compress the spring in the tractor. I used the heavy spring but the new heavy clutch discs that I bought wouldn't work, bought from Zack Kerber Machine, with the clutch all assembled the plates were so tight togeather the clutch couldn't realease. He refunded me my money, offered to custom make me a driveshaft to use the new discs, nice guy to do business with. All adjusted and pulling great. Once again thanks for the advice and the help.


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