Clutch Throwout Bearing???

B

BigBill

501 Club
Does anyone have the info on an affordable throwout bearing for the standard cub cadets 70 to 1200? Has anyone found a replacement throwout bearing yet other than the orginal IH bearing?
 
From Brian Miller article above
Saving a Used Throw-Out (Clutch Release) Bearing -
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Throw-Out / Clutch Release BearingIf a used throw-out bearing is still pretty much "tight," but sounds noisy or "rattles" when you spin it by hand, it could be saved from further wear by pumping it full of automotive chassis lube. The same can be done to a new bearing to insure that it will last a long time. (I've done this many times when I rebuild clutch assemblies and have never had one complaint!) The fresh grease will help keep the balls within the bearing lubricated and cool, preventing them from further wear. But if the bearing is badly worn or if you're in doubt about doing this, install a new one. (Cub Cadet part # 741-3056)

IMPORTANT! When assembling the clutch components, never install the throw-out bearing on the driveshaft backwards! Install it with the collar (the center part that sticks out) towards the clutch disc.

How To Save A Used Throw-Out Bearing:

1. Needle grease injector attaches to a grease gunChainsaw bar tip grease gun Drill a 3/32" hole in the grease/dust seal on the back side of the bearing.
2. Wash the entire bearing in cleaning solvent until the rollers are free of the drill cuttings and dirt on the inside. It's clean when the sound changes when it's spun by hand and when it spins more freely.
3. Use compressed air to blow dry the entire bearing, including the inside. But don't spin the bearing with the air! Doing this could further damage the bearing!
grease2.gif
grease1.gif

4. Using either a chainsaw bar tip grease gun or a needle grease injector (resembles a hypodermic syringe) that attaches to a grease gun, pump the bearing through the drilled hole until it's full of grease. Turn the bearing 180º and pump it again. It's full when the grease starts to ooze out of the dust seals.
5. Wipe the grease from around the hole with a clean rag and apply a dab of RTV adhesive silicone sealer (clear color) over the hole. The bearing is now good for another 10,000 miles!

The same procedure above can be done to many types of used precision, high-speed sealed roller bearings, besides just throw-out bearings. And for anyone who's ever wondered about this, when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed, the throw-out bearing moves back 3/8" on the driveshaft.

By the way - the throw-out bearing used in the model 582 is different than other models. It's an ordinary sealed high speed ball bearing with a sleeve pressed into it. It measures .780" i.d. x 1.850" o.d. x .550" wide. The number is 6204R5 and 180204. These are not Timken numbers. They will need to be cross-referenced.
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I would try this before I bought a new throw out bearing.
 
I actually did the trick that Brian Miller suggests. Worked great on my 100 and will try it again on the 124 one of these days... it's really noisy.
 
On my 104 thats been left in a shed and then outside for over 20+ years the throwout bearing is starting to sing and squeel now. I'm thinking replacement over lubing it? So far my 100, my 122 and my 108 all need throwout bearings and a little clutch work too. Its going to get costly as they get fixed.
 
There is a new throwout bearing listed on epay (for Cub Cadets) (sorry but I don't know how to make the link shorter so it will fit on this page and I know I'll get hollered at if I post a long link)

I can't quite make out all of the number, but it is a "nice" bearing... My point is, IF this bearing works, and the seller from epay is making money at $45.99 each, one should be able to pick up one of these bearings at your local bearing supply store, for a considerable amount less than the sellers price...

Has anyone tried one of these bearings, if so, do they work?

Thanks Guys,
 
The seller may be a Cub Cadet dealer. Since it is a proprietary bearing, a bearing house cannot legally sell the bearing except to a Cub Cadet/Case IH dealer, with the key word's being "legally sell".
 
I don't know if the reason is legal (a patent) or financial (a specialized design that there is no other market for), but there does not seem to be a substitute for this bearing.
Dave
 
I doubt that any bearing on a cub cadet is proprietary to IHC other than the plastic bushing on the steering shaft. The bearing is an extended center shielded bearing, not all that uncommon. The bore is 1/2 inch, I think, and any extended center shielded with a reasonable axial rating should work. You could just use a plain shielded bearing and place a 1/2 inch bore spacer on it to make the extended center.
The bearing on the web is a NICE 7868-6. Still may be cheaper to get from Carter Gruenwald.
RBC bearings series 7600 looks like it would work.
 
Landreo
I doubt that any bearing on a cub cadet is proprietary to IHC other than the plastic bushing on the steering shaft
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You are certainly free to believe what you want, and maybe one of these early IH part numbers can be crossed to a bearing that can be used: ST 435, or IH-391237-R91. The only one of the bearing's I have out right now is marked PHC 217 W1B, or it may be an 8 rather than a B, so that may cross to a usable replacement. The ID, or bore of the bearing's, is 5/8".
 
I am not being sarcastic but just trying to help BigBill. Someone on this board may have been part of IHC at a corporate level and knows the history of the bearing. Bushings and the like may have been made by IHC and would have had a patent at one time. It would make sense to use commercial off the shelf ball and roller bearings and I expect that is what was done. Since the bearing I have has a non-IHC part number, I assume it was at that time commercially available from the bearing manufacturer and is not proprietary to IHC. I do not recognize the logo so I have no idea who made the bearing. We have a apparently valid number from Nice and a bearing supplier should be able to get the bearing. If the bearing is still under patent to IHC, a long patent time, the there would be no point to looking elsewhere.

It still may be NLA from Nice and BigBill may still have to pay the 40+ dollars.
This winter I need to go over my cadets and look at those bearings, I may be in the same boat as Big Bill.
 
I'm browsing for a replacement throwout bearing for now. I hate to bite the bullet and go for 4 or 5 new throwout bearings but that maybe the only way.
 
I was wrong, maybe. The bearing I have has a number and a logo. The logo is WP which I believe is "West Pullman" which was either a bearing manufacturer or a factory owned by IHC. Either way the patent has long since expired on whoever WP is. The "Nice" bearing is listed as obsolete and has not been made since 2005.

However, here is the results of some experimentation with a $6 bearing:

normal_DSCN0145.jpg


The difference is the extended inner race is on both sides rather than one side but that should not matter.
 
The West pullman plant made the nuts and bolts that IH used, originally with the IH emblem on the head of the bolt used on the Cub Cadets (and I assume other IH built vehicles/equipment). In the late 60's or early 70's, the IH was replaced by WP on the head. I'm told that was done so bolts could be sold to other company's. I don't know if they made bearings there or not, but it is very possible. I did not start messing with Cub Cadets until well after the line had been sold, and well after IH became part of Case IH, and in all my attempts to find a less expensive Cub Cadet throwout bearing, I was always told the same thing, and by different bearing houses, that the bearing was only available thru the dealer.
 
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