offrink wrote:Everything that my cub won't do. I won't be tilling or planting, well most likely. Just the added power of plowing or pulling logs and trailers. Just an overall workhorse. Prices around here overlap. 1300-3000 for an H and 1800 to 5000 for a top end M.
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Which would you choose? M or H?
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2014 3:14 pm
- Zip Code: 62258
Re: Which would you choose? M or H?
I have always been told tractors (like cars) vary in price by region, but $5k for a M it better be well equiped, live hydraulics and the works. H easier to mount and dismount. I would recommend you scan your area for a 300. Bout same size as h but many addtional features. Good luck.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 406
- Joined: Thu Jan 02, 2014 4:23 pm
- Zip Code: 49316
- Tractors Owned: 1954 farmall fcub, 1954 farmall super m
- Location: Caledonia, MI
Re: Which would you choose? M or H?
That was a high M. I think it was a a-MDTA. Most of the M's were in the 2-3,000 range.
Has anyone any info on a SW6TA?
Has anyone any info on a SW6TA?
- Brendan In NC
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 440
- Joined: Fri Jul 29, 2011 6:54 pm
- Zip Code: 27858
- Tractors Owned: 1964 Farmall Cub Red Square Nose # 223883 one of 2300 built before they switch to Yellow and White.
1964 Farmall 140 #27512
Just a Clean Strong run of the mill Farmall 140 with very little Wear.
Also have a bit of equipment
Woods C-42 Belly mower, 1963 IH McCormick #215 Plow, IH #144 Cultivators, IH Side Dresser (in need of some work non working at the moment) - Location: Greenville N.C
- Contact:
Re: Which would you choose? M or H?
Like the Glasspack muffler Lolv w wrote:The M&W so called hand clutch is not a true clutch. You cannot shift gears with it, you must use the foot clutch. The M&W merely disengages the left wheel. This is like the Allis W45 I believe. Allis made a small round baler in the 50's and stopping forward motion was necessary to discharge the bale. The hydraulics are not live either on the M nor H. Generally a hyd pump from a later model which fits in the ignition drive ahead of the distributor will fit. Super M's hyd is this way and I have been told the last few M's were this way. Aftermarket three point hitches are available. Dad had a hyd block which gave two way hyd to the S-M. We generally parked the M (and S-M) for the winter it was such a bear to start. It's starter was usually a pull by the H. Two batteries in parallel helps but a 12 volt conversion is the real answer. The H always started but being a mag sparked engine it had to barely turn over. But hey, now that we have your M almost up to date why not get a 406 to start with?
Note the extra hyds on this one but they don't appear to be live. It is for sale and has trip loader, box scraper and three point hitch. No fenders or wheel weights are visible. I won't go into my rant about operating tractors without fenders. They can easily be made to set wide if you don't intend to move the wheels all the way in. I would be very wary of this tractor however. It has been for sale forever.
http://battlecreek.craigslist.org/grd/4577181528.html
Remember also that like most tractors the H & the M evolved during production. Thus a 51 M would have more power than a distillate burning 39 if the engine hasn't been changed. If there is a small tank ahead of the main tank or as often the case a hole in the hood ahead of the tank it was built as a distallate burner.. Dad's H was a 39 originally built to burn distillate which was one reason for putting the M&W conversion in it.
Vern
Tractors are like watermelons..Eat the red and throw away the green!!
Brendan Dixon Greenville NC
1964 Farmall Cub #223883
1964 Farmall 140 #27512
Tractorguy140, YouTube
Brendan Dixon Greenville NC
1964 Farmall Cub #223883
1964 Farmall 140 #27512
Tractorguy140, YouTube
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 406
- Joined: Thu Jan 02, 2014 4:23 pm
- Zip Code: 49316
- Tractors Owned: 1954 farmall fcub, 1954 farmall super m
- Location: Caledonia, MI
Re: Which would you choose? M or H?
Does anyone know about a SW6TA? One looks in good shape around me.
- Super A
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 5232
- Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2004 10:53 am
- Zip Code: 28521
- Tractors Owned: Collector of Super As, Corn Pickers, and a buncha other junk. Even a Cub now and then...
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: NC, Jacksonville area
Re: Which would you choose? M or H?
It's the standard tread version of the Super MTA.
Al
Al
White Demo Super A Restoration Updates
Let us pray for farmers and all who prepare the soil for planting, that the seeds they sow may lead to a bountiful harvest.
Celebrating 75 years of the Super A: 1947-2022
Let us pray for farmers and all who prepare the soil for planting, that the seeds they sow may lead to a bountiful harvest.
Celebrating 75 years of the Super A: 1947-2022
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 4948
- Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 3:04 pm
- Zip Code: 14559
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Rochester, NY
Re: Which would you choose? M or H?
Yes, that's all it is. Fairly rare, too.
I wouldn't turn my nose up at one from a collector standpoint, but for usability, I'd rather have the SMTA. Dad has an early W-400 which is the same basic tractor as the SW6TA, and it's tough to drive for me. The pedals are up high and require good abs.
I wouldn't turn my nose up at one from a collector standpoint, but for usability, I'd rather have the SMTA. Dad has an early W-400 which is the same basic tractor as the SW6TA, and it's tough to drive for me. The pedals are up high and require good abs.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 406
- Joined: Thu Jan 02, 2014 4:23 pm
- Zip Code: 49316
- Tractors Owned: 1954 farmall fcub, 1954 farmall super m
- Location: Caledonia, MI
Re: Which would you choose? M or H?
The sw6ta is stated that it starts easy and runs great. Only issue is that the paint is pink from fading and it's $3500. But as I said in a previous that's on the high side of regular M's.
What do you mean by standard tread? The one I see has a wide stance in the front.
What do you mean by standard tread? The one I see has a wide stance in the front.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 406
- Joined: Thu Jan 02, 2014 4:23 pm
- Zip Code: 49316
- Tractors Owned: 1954 farmall fcub, 1954 farmall super m
- Location: Caledonia, MI
Re: Which would you choose? M or H?
The sw6ta is stated that it starts easy and runs great. Only issue is that the paint is pink from fading and it's $3500. But as I said in a previous that's on the high side of regular M's.
What do you mean by standard tread? The one I see has a wide stance in the front.
What do you mean by standard tread? The one I see has a wide stance in the front.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 602
- Joined: Wed Apr 20, 2005 6:41 am
- Location: Norwich,Ontario
- Contact:
Re: Which would you choose? M or H?
If you are using a CUB a Super H would do a good lot of work.
How much money will the little woman let you spend?
If you just hit the jackpot, buy both a Super H & SuperM!
How much money will the little woman let you spend?
If you just hit the jackpot, buy both a Super H & SuperM!
IHC made a quality machine and was leader of the pack.Let's keep them running,
- Super A
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 5232
- Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2004 10:53 am
- Zip Code: 28521
- Tractors Owned: Collector of Super As, Corn Pickers, and a buncha other junk. Even a Cub now and then...
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: NC, Jacksonville area
Re: Which would you choose? M or H?
offrink wrote:
What do you mean by standard tread? The one I see has a wide stance in the front.
Basically low to the ground with a wide front end and mostly non-adjustable tread width.
Al
White Demo Super A Restoration Updates
Let us pray for farmers and all who prepare the soil for planting, that the seeds they sow may lead to a bountiful harvest.
Celebrating 75 years of the Super A: 1947-2022
Let us pray for farmers and all who prepare the soil for planting, that the seeds they sow may lead to a bountiful harvest.
Celebrating 75 years of the Super A: 1947-2022
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 406
- Joined: Thu Jan 02, 2014 4:23 pm
- Zip Code: 49316
- Tractors Owned: 1954 farmall fcub, 1954 farmall super m
- Location: Caledonia, MI
Re: Which would you choose? M or H?
Al is it all the way in or out or in the middle compared to the standard M?
Price to spend is hopefully in the $2500 range but I see lots of H 's in the $1500 range. Let's just say if it's in excellent near perfect condition SMDTA for 5k I could pull it off.
Price to spend is hopefully in the $2500 range but I see lots of H 's in the $1500 range. Let's just say if it's in excellent near perfect condition SMDTA for 5k I could pull it off.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 4948
- Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 3:04 pm
- Zip Code: 14559
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Rochester, NY
Re: Which would you choose? M or H?
The SW6TA is set quite narrow.
Dad's W-400, which is the next generation and nearly identical mechanically, fits perfectly down 30" rows of corn.
Dad's W-400, which is the next generation and nearly identical mechanically, fits perfectly down 30" rows of corn.
- Radec Aksarben
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 219
- Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2014 11:53 am
- Zip Code: 68736
- Tractors Owned: '48 Farmall Cub w/ IH-Danco C2 belly mower, full cultivator
'52 Farmall Cub w/ 193 plow, 28-A disk, flail mower, buzz saw, leveling blade,
misc cultivator parts and attachments
1450 Cub Cadet with mower deck (sold)
'49 Farmall M w/ factory disk brakes (not super style)
'51 International I-9 - rusty yellow (sold but in family) - Circle of Safety: Y
Re: Which would you choose? M or H?
If you're plowing/disking, get an M. My M will dig itself to China before it ever stalls. If you are going to run a loader get something newer with factory power steering/ live power, unless it won't be used much. An 806 with 56 series shift is an awesome loader. Otherwise an M is better than the H for a loader for sure, it's heavier and wider.
H's are waaaay easier to maneuver in small spaces and mow with. My brother's H is like heaven when sickle mowing at his place instead of using my M at my place. Making quick square turns with no power steering is a bear.
I have live hydraulics on mine. We put a super style pump ahead of the distributor. If you do the same, make darn sure you get the heavier cam shaft gear that drives the distributor gear or you'll shred the lighter cam gear - That's what happened to us. If you do that you can shell out the belly pump and use it as a reservoir. I think it looks pretty clean that way. I kept the original style control rod too.
I mostly mow with my M. If I had to do it again, I think I might get an H. (I'm never giving up this M though )
H's are waaaay easier to maneuver in small spaces and mow with. My brother's H is like heaven when sickle mowing at his place instead of using my M at my place. Making quick square turns with no power steering is a bear.
I have live hydraulics on mine. We put a super style pump ahead of the distributor. If you do the same, make darn sure you get the heavier cam shaft gear that drives the distributor gear or you'll shred the lighter cam gear - That's what happened to us. If you do that you can shell out the belly pump and use it as a reservoir. I think it looks pretty clean that way. I kept the original style control rod too.
I mostly mow with my M. If I had to do it again, I think I might get an H. (I'm never giving up this M though )
- Radec Aksarben
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 219
- Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2014 11:53 am
- Zip Code: 68736
- Tractors Owned: '48 Farmall Cub w/ IH-Danco C2 belly mower, full cultivator
'52 Farmall Cub w/ 193 plow, 28-A disk, flail mower, buzz saw, leveling blade,
misc cultivator parts and attachments
1450 Cub Cadet with mower deck (sold)
'49 Farmall M w/ factory disk brakes (not super style)
'51 International I-9 - rusty yellow (sold but in family) - Circle of Safety: Y
Re: Which would you choose? M or H?
Here is a picture of the current live hydraulic set up.
Another thing: If ever plan on going on a tractor drive with it, the H burns around 8 gal per 70 miles at ~12 mph and my M does maybe 10 gal.
This tractor cost $1750 in 2005 with paint, excellent mechanically except NO brakes. It has factory disks.
Another thing: If ever plan on going on a tractor drive with it, the H burns around 8 gal per 70 miles at ~12 mph and my M does maybe 10 gal.
This tractor cost $1750 in 2005 with paint, excellent mechanically except NO brakes. It has factory disks.
- SONNY
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 4107
- Joined: Thu Nov 09, 2006 11:26 pm
- Zip Code: 61722
Re: Which would you choose? M or H?
Unless the M has ps,--its a real pig to drive hard to get on/off! H not much better! for $2500 you could get a nice 504 lpto ,ps, torque amp and 3-pt hitch!---shop around for a more modern model! thanks; sonny
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