Farmall M, Super M, 400, 450 & 560 Tractors, 1939-1963
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6 posts • Page 1 of 1
So I know this is the cub section of the site but it gets the most viewing so I decided to post it up here. Plus I think they are al lthe same basic design. I am having some issues with the carb on my super m. the measurements that came with the kit for adjusting the float leave it pouring gas out everywhere. If I adjust it less it seems to make the needle stick in the seat. Any suggestions???
Does anybody have an IH service manual that gives the float adjustment specs?? The rebuild kit calls for a 1 5/16 closed and 1 15/16 open and I cant get it to work with those numbers. It just poors gas out everywhere.
Where did you purchase the carburetor kit?
Reduce the float drop by adjusting the tab on the back side of the float hinge pin. Following the specs provided, you currently have 5/8" float drop - that probably more than half the length of the needle valve. You probably don't need more than 1/4" float drop. So, set the float drop to 1/4", then try the bench tests cited in my previous post.
I have an excuse. CRS.
From the number and type of questions that you have been asking, I think you would be well advised to purchase copies of the Owner's Manual, Parts Catalog and Service Manual for your tractor. They are readily available from http://www.binderbooks.com .
MD, Deep Creek Lake
"1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A
1951 Farmall Super C w/FH
ok so I took the whole carb off again and adjusted the float to the specs provided. I have it at EXACTLY 1 5/16 closed and 1 15/16 with float open. I double checked and made sure the float was not rubbing anywhere on the float bowl etc. It moves freely and have reassembled the carb. I will put it back on tonight and see how it goes. I must say I am pretty skeptical that it will not just poor gas out like before, but I would like nothing more than to be wrong on this one.
On a seperate not. All this messing around working to get this tractor running correctly has me seriously considering rebuilding it this winter. It would be a blast and my boys and I would have a ball working on it together. Anybody ever rebuilt a super M before? I am pretty sure not everything is original as the engine block was painted yellow and has a dipstick, just to name one.
6 posts • Page 1 of 1
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