Farmall M, Super M, 400, 450 & 560 Tractors, 1939-1963
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Sat Jan 22, 2011 11:19 am
I need to fabricate an engine hand crank for an M. Can someone please send me the dimensions of the original crank ?
Sat Jan 22, 2011 11:40 am
Mr E has one.
Sat Jan 22, 2011 11:41 am
Thank you I'll send P/M
Sat Jan 22, 2011 9:00 pm
the best crank for a 248 cubic inch M is a battery and a starter..
Sat Jan 22, 2011 9:21 pm
Just seeing this post. I'll get those dimensions for you tomorrow morning.
Sun Jan 23, 2011 11:05 am
Berlin, I have the measurements with pics for you. What I don't have at this time is DSL service!! (Sending this from my Blackberry)
Sun Jan 23, 2011 11:08 am
I can send him a picture of one for my H, if you want to provide the dimensions. The look the same, but not sure of the dimensions.
Sun Jan 23, 2011 4:22 pm
Thanks to all who replied to my post:
I am not wanting to start the tractor with the crank, I am in the process of freeing the stuck engine and need a crank to help with the process. So far I have been able to remove all of the pistons and sleeves by jacking the crank and using my air hammer on the manual crank shaft. I need to clear out the timing gears of crud and a hand crank would be helpfull. Roy, aka Mr. E has been kind enough to offer to send me the dimensions. If I need to pull the timing gear cover, are there any special tricks that I should know ?
Thanks again, I appreciate all of the help, Berlin
Sun Jan 23, 2011 8:46 pm
the engine pulley is actually easier to remove on the H and M's than the cub...so removing the front cover is straight forward. from what you have said, i would plan to do that. its better to completely dissassemble the engine than worry that you might have missed something...
when you go to reinstall the sleeves, heat the block with one of those kero torpedo heaters or the like, (i put the engine on a furniture dolly so i can turn it and heat it evenly) and put the sleeves in the freezer or on dry ice. then while the block is too hot to touch drop in the sleeve...have a couple blocks of wood and a hammer ready to seat the sleeve..be quick about it.
occasionally a sleeve will just drop in and even when cold will be loose. take the sleeve out, apply a bead of loctite around the sleeve, and set it back in.
after you insert a piston, block the sleeve from coming out with a washer or a block of steel on a head bolt. this is not so important on a dry sleeve engine as it is on a wet sleeve like an A, where the sleeves will come right out when you rotate the engine 180 to install pistons 2 and 3.
Sun Jan 23, 2011 10:32 pm
Finally got DSL back. Someone cut a major fiber cable in the area. Apparently most of North Florida was out.
Here are the pics and dimensions. The pics are pretty large, so I'm just going to give you a link to them. Let me know if you have any questions.http://mre.smugmug.com/gallery/15565259_Frok7#1166036047_PmJkk
Mon Jan 24, 2011 11:36 am
Thank you very much Roy for taking the time to make and photo and send all of the measurements, I do appreciate it.
Thanks Art for the info that is helpfull and is also appreciated.
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