Farmall M, Super M, 400, 450 & 560 Tractors, 1939-1963
Moderator: Team Cub
12 posts • Page 1 of 1
i have been using my m with a linebacher posthole digger to install fence posts. ( i learned how to make split rail fences ) well my 3pt hitch only has power to lift not to lower. its hard to control the digger because it basically drops when i use the factory control. i have three ports on this tractor, one on the right side and two on the left. from my observations it appears that these ports are all power out (high pressure) and none are returns (low pressure). now for my Q, if i used a two-way valve and installed a return line to the fill cap, will i be able to control the dual action cylinder on my hitch?
tes, by leaving the M hydrlaic lever pulled all the tiem. and you are correct in your observation of the original outlets.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government
to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the
government lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." Patrick Henry
Been there done this. Here is the fix!
Go to you local hydraulic supply dealer and buy a parker valve that allows unrestricted flow in one direction and metered flow in the other. They are common. Next install it in the line running from the R/H port running it under the seat so its reachable from the seat or from the ground behind the tractor. Now you will able to lower anything regardless of weight as slow as you wish. You can even lock off the valve, raise your load, then lower it by slower releasing the fluid by unscrewing the valve.
YOU GOT IT !!!!! Go for it. If I got some pics from a couple of yrs ago I'll try to find em and post em. That little valve will solve your problem. It will make the hydraulic fluid exhaust flow so sensitive you could use the M with a boom pole as an engine hoist. To use it first lock it off and lift your load. Then push the control valve forward all the way to set the pump up for return fluid. Then slowly open the new valve till it lowers to your liking. Just leave it there or adjust as necessary. One setting may satisfy a range of loads. You will have total flexability over the down rate. The up isn't usually a problem. Hope this helps and let me know how you make out.
I would personally not bother with the factory 2way valve setup. It ultimately won't satisfy where you are headed. My H has the perfect setup for 2way with tons of flexability and great control. Best of all it employs live hydraulic power. All together it will cost about $500.00 but you will love the results. I have it on mine and it is a proven system. Details to follow with pics.
hey bill if you can find any pics it would be very helpful. i should had purchased a pump at the red power roundup this summer but the guy who was selling it looked real shady and couldnt tell me if it worked or not. i do have a copy of the m&w manual on how to convert a regular h or m to live hydraulics. i have been checking tractor boneyards for the pump but i havent been lucky yet.
would that type of pump fit an M? there was a vendor at red power this summer and he had a pump for an m that didnt look like yours at all. i had a bad feeling so i didnt buy it. i do like how you setup your lines. also your seat spring and shock position also caught my eye. on my m its reversed. i think i will have to take more pics of my m and post it.
That was the most common pump IH used. I believe it was used on H-450 tractors. They are on Epay almost everyday. Should be able to find one for $200.00 or less. You will also need the timing cover and back plate from a tractor that had live power easily available through steel wheel ranch. Just go to steelwheelranch.com. He probably can sell you the whole thing. He also has new Charlyn power steering kits for around $400.00 that will run off the live pump setup.
That is how my H looks today except for the motor is still tore down again. It is a real strong runner. Its had a couple of upgrades along the way.
12 posts • Page 1 of 1
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