Greetings,
I have enjoyed watching tractor pulls for years. I recently purchased a 48 M Farmall. My first pull I placed 2nd out of 3 in the 5500 class. The M that won the pull pulled a good distance past where I stopped. I say at least 50 ft. if not more. The tractor that placed 3rd was behind me by about 6 ft. It got me to wondering how the first place tractor out distanced the other 2 by so much. On my pull, I stopped when my right tire broke traction. My tractor ran well. Any opinions as to what I could do to my tractor without spending a fortune, or should I look around for a Super M?
Thanks,
Puller M
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Farmall M or Super M for pulling
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Re: Farmall M or Super M for pulling
Cheap stuff:
Maximum tractor weight for your class. Good portion of the added weight on rear wheels. Maybe 100 lbs more of the rear wheel weight on the right rear tire.
Good engine tune up. Throttle set/adjusted so that when the hard part of the pull starts the engine rpms drop back/down to and hold the maximum engine torque.
Getting expensive stuff, engine work/compression.
Maximum tractor weight for your class. Good portion of the added weight on rear wheels. Maybe 100 lbs more of the rear wheel weight on the right rear tire.
Good engine tune up. Throttle set/adjusted so that when the hard part of the pull starts the engine rpms drop back/down to and hold the maximum engine torque.
Getting expensive stuff, engine work/compression.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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1944 Farmall H
1948 Farmall Cub (SOLD)
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Re: Farmall M or Super M for pulling
I don't pull but belong to a club that pulls and know a bit of what those guys do:
They weight the tractor to its maximum for the class. Many of the weights can be moved side to side and front to rear to maximize their traction for the conditions. Tires and tire pressure are critical.
The guys that are really serious use a magneto and ditch the battery, generator and starter. That lets them put the weight back where they need it. Of course they crank start them. They also ditch all accessories (pto, belt pulley, lights etc.) for the same reason.
And of course if you have a tire start to slip you apply that brake to transfer torque to the other tire.
They pull every opportunity they get. There is operator skill involved and developing it takes lots of practice.
They weight the tractor to its maximum for the class. Many of the weights can be moved side to side and front to rear to maximize their traction for the conditions. Tires and tire pressure are critical.
The guys that are really serious use a magneto and ditch the battery, generator and starter. That lets them put the weight back where they need it. Of course they crank start them. They also ditch all accessories (pto, belt pulley, lights etc.) for the same reason.
And of course if you have a tire start to slip you apply that brake to transfer torque to the other tire.
They pull every opportunity they get. There is operator skill involved and developing it takes lots of practice.
1944 Farmall H
1948 Farmall Cub
1994 Speedex 1631
1948 Farmall Cub
1994 Speedex 1631
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Re: Farmall M or Super M for pulling
Super m, but don't pull the PTO if you want to run in farm stock class, try to set the weight were you carry the front wheels about 1/2 inch off the ground,, hitch point at the maximum height allowed in the rules. It sounds like your pulling transfer, not dead sled, so pick a gear that's a little higher so you get your momentum up, and super m gives you that little extra hp.
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Re: Farmall M or Super M for pulling
super m has WAY more stock hp than the m! Work on the inside of the motor,---then take all the outer stuff of that they will allow, then weigh the tractor and add weight to the max in the right places. For tires, see what the winners run and go from there. You most likely will have 10 or 20 thousand in the tractor with no promise of winning anything.
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