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Farmall BN timing
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Re: Farmall BN timing
I'll give that a try with the magneto. Can it be done by hand turning the engine or should I use the starter to try it.
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Re: Farmall BN timing
If you have a hand crank - works best. You can use the starter to crank over the engine and hear the magneto click and look for the spark, unless you are hard of hearing.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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Re: Farmall BN timing
OK. Found the timing marks. There is a line cast into the dust shield/clutch inspection cover. The timing marks on the crank need to be at the 6:00 position. When the timing marks are placed there I can see the rotor points nowhere near #1 so the timing is WAY off.
Going to hit it hard again tomorrow when daylight returns.
Going to hit it hard again tomorrow when daylight returns.
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Re: Farmall BN timing
Now that you have located the DC mark on the flywheel, you might want to add a paint dab or something to make it easier to see. There is a rib cast into the center of the big dust shield. Reinstall the front shield and sight through the other opening to align at TDC.
The bolt in the center of the rear cover is a permanent part of a cross bar that rests against the edges of the opening. Pull out on the nut so there is a little tension on the bolt and it is likely to unscrew. You don't have to completely unscrew it. Once it is loose, slide the cover sideways to unhook one side of the cross bar. You may already have it loose enough.
The bolt in the center of the rear cover is a permanent part of a cross bar that rests against the edges of the opening. Pull out on the nut so there is a little tension on the bolt and it is likely to unscrew. You don't have to completely unscrew it. Once it is loose, slide the cover sideways to unhook one side of the cross bar. You may already have it loose enough.
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Re: Farmall BN timing
Will definitely add some white out to those timing marks.
For finding TDC is there another method I can use instead of the finger trick over the #1 plug hole? Both valves should be shut, at the other TDC position would either of the valves be open?
I don't have any spare hands to help and I don't have a hand crank bar.
For finding TDC is there another method I can use instead of the finger trick over the #1 plug hole? Both valves should be shut, at the other TDC position would either of the valves be open?
I don't have any spare hands to help and I don't have a hand crank bar.
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Re: Farmall BN timing
Cs641 wrote:For finding TDC is there another method I can use instead of the finger trick over the #1 plug hole? Both valves should be shut, at the other TDC position would either of the valves be open?
Should have added to my original post that this procedure will put the #1 cylinder at or near TDC. Then all you have to do is line up the timing marks to put the #1 cylinder at TDC.Eugene wrote:Trick. Since engine was running, remove the magneto cover. Rotate the engine until the rotor points to the #1 plug wire location. This should put the timing marks, at or near the pointer.
If you remove the starter, you can use a large flat bladed screw driver and the flywheel teeth to line up the timing marks.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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Re: Farmall BN timing
For top dead center, I use a cork stuck in the #1 plug hole...learned this at a cubfest one year. Easy to hear it pop out...sometimes hard to find where it landed, though!! Thought about tying a thread to it with a clip!
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Re: Farmall BN timing
The cork trick is one I'm going to have to use!
I tried using a compression tester but I couldn't get the motor spinning fast enough by hand to register anything on the gauge. So I reinstalled the electric starter which was rebuilt a couple years ago and it appears there is a short in the starter. It's drawing so much power my Jeep dropped a few hundred RPM's while jumping it.
I guess before I go any further I need a new starter.
I tried using a compression tester but I couldn't get the motor spinning fast enough by hand to register anything on the gauge. So I reinstalled the electric starter which was rebuilt a couple years ago and it appears there is a short in the starter. It's drawing so much power my Jeep dropped a few hundred RPM's while jumping it.
I guess before I go any further I need a new starter.
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Re: Farmall BN timing
Much cheaper to repair the starter yourself or have the starter repaired.Cs641 wrote:I guess before I go any further I need a new starter.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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Re: Farmall BN timing
Eugene wrote:Much cheaper to repair the starter yourself or have the starter repaired.Cs641 wrote:I guess before I go any further I need a new starter.
Could you point me towards a guide for it?
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Re: Farmall BN timing
The shop who I had rebuild the starter is going to take a look at the starter but it's going to be a few weeks.
So, I bought a brand new aftermarket starter off the internet which should be here by the end of the week. Have to wait for the starter to get here before I can locate true TDC on #1. I don't have a hand crank and even if I did the hand crank hole is blocked by the home brew plow frame.
Also have a question on the magneto. I seem to remember that they need to be oiled. What grade of oil and how much is needed?
One other random question has to do with the rubber tube to the oil bath air cleaner....the neck on the carb is a different diameter than the air cleaner, maybe 1/2" difference. Is that normal?
Thanks!
So, I bought a brand new aftermarket starter off the internet which should be here by the end of the week. Have to wait for the starter to get here before I can locate true TDC on #1. I don't have a hand crank and even if I did the hand crank hole is blocked by the home brew plow frame.
Also have a question on the magneto. I seem to remember that they need to be oiled. What grade of oil and how much is needed?
One other random question has to do with the rubber tube to the oil bath air cleaner....the neck on the carb is a different diameter than the air cleaner, maybe 1/2" difference. Is that normal?
Thanks!
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