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Farmall b drawbar bolts
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Farmall b drawbar bolts
Can all the bolts on the drop housings be removed. I've tried removing them I've been putting we-40 on them soaking them and hitting them with a sludge hammer they need to be removed because the threads are messed up. I haven't tried heat yet if heat and penetrating oil doesn't work what could I use? I will try to add a pic of the bolts I'm talking about.
Last edited by Tiller1940 on Mon Oct 19, 2015 6:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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1952 Farmall Cub
Re: Farmall b drawbar bolts
Bolt A is the one need to be removed how would I do that? Can it be removed?
- Dale Finch
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Re: Farmall b drawbar bolts
Not sure about the B, but some of the implement fasteners on the SA are studs with nuts on them, rather than bolts.
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Re: Farmall b drawbar bolts
That is a through bolt. It should have a square head that rests against the casting to keep it from turning. I have seen some of them that were pretty solidly rusted in place. But I have always gotten them out with penetrating oil and a hammer. If that doesn't work, I would heat the bolt a hot as I could get it then let it cool and reapply the hammer. If that doesn't work, drill it out. No threads to worry about.
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Re: Farmall b drawbar bolts
Thanks for the help Daleand Jim I've been soaking them for two days now they are pretty rusted they won't budge with a 3 foot sludge.
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Re: Farmall b drawbar bolts
Have you tried a good sized impact wrench? Couple hits in one direction, then reverse the wrench's rotation.
Just a thought. Might continue soaking and the impact wrench every day.
Just a thought. Might continue soaking and the impact wrench every day.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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Re: Farmall b drawbar bolts
You wouldn't be able to put an impact socket on it. The square head will be resting against the casting. The only chance of putting any torque to it would be a pipe wrench on the threads in the counterclockwise direction. The probable result would be to twist off the end of the bolt, leaving you nothing to hammer on.
I think the best option at this point is to heat the bolt to red hot then let it cool over night before going at it again with the sledge.
I think the best option at this point is to heat the bolt to red hot then let it cool over night before going at it again with the sledge.
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Re: Farmall b drawbar bolts
Two of the most colossal wastes of time and money in this situation are:
1. Classic WD40
2. Propane torch
Classic WD40 is not a penetrating oil, and a propane torch will not produce the BTUs necessary to get the bolt hot enough. Two propane torches used simultaneously MIGHT, though. I've seen Jimmy Diresta get pretty good-sized chunks of steel red hot with two torches in his youtube videos.
If you have WD40 Rust Release Penetrating Formula, and an oxy-acetylene outfit, you will get somewhere.
1. Classic WD40
2. Propane torch
Classic WD40 is not a penetrating oil, and a propane torch will not produce the BTUs necessary to get the bolt hot enough. Two propane torches used simultaneously MIGHT, though. I've seen Jimmy Diresta get pretty good-sized chunks of steel red hot with two torches in his youtube videos.
If you have WD40 Rust Release Penetrating Formula, and an oxy-acetylene outfit, you will get somewhere.
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Re: Farmall b drawbar bolts
I agree with Matt. Also, 2 days of soaking is nothing for 50-years of rust. Give it a week or two, and go to Kroil or PB Blaster, or some other actual penetrating oil. Hell, acetone and transmission fluid would be a better penetrating oil than WD-40! When I've got bolts like that, I give them a squirt of Kroil ever day for about 2 weeks before I even touch them with a wrench.
Also, I've found that a breaker bar and socket works a whole lot better than an impact wrench. Of course, I've got a cheapo impact wrench, and I've got a lot of a$$ to throw on a breaker bar!
Also, I've found that a breaker bar and socket works a whole lot better than an impact wrench. Of course, I've got a cheapo impact wrench, and I've got a lot of a$$ to throw on a breaker bar!
Cub Cadets 682, 1811, 1864, Simplicity Legacy XL 4x4 Diesel with FEL, 60" mower, 50" Tiller
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Re: Farmall b drawbar bolts
Thanks guys like Jim said the bolts rest against the housing one is still square the other has a normal bolt head on it i am going to try to heat it with a cutting torch I won't cut the bolts the tractor is a 1940 and I want to go easy on it as it is restored I hate to heat the paint off but I got to have a drawbar
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Re: Farmall b drawbar bolts
gitractorman wrote:...........
Also, I've found that a breaker bar and socket works a whole lot better than an impact wrench. Of course, I've got a cheapo impact wrench, and I've got a lot of a$$ to throw on a breaker bar!
My experience is just the opposite. I used to think that a longer breaker bar was the answer to getting stuck bolts out. A mower deck I was working on changed my mind, 3 spindles, 4 bolts each. Got one loose and broke three with a 24" breaker bar (breaker bar doesn't always mean break loose, sometimes it's break it off!) Regrouped and a couple days later used air impact wrench to back the remaining eight out like they were finger tight.
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Re: Farmall b drawbar bolts
Heat w/torch then the spray freeze stuff on the bolt Has worked for me when nothing would budge!!!!!
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'56,,'57,'59, Cu'b
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Dad's DB garden tractor
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Re: Farmall b drawbar bolts
Thanks Dusty B
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