Just got my B home, where do I start?

[markh28]

Just got my 1941 B home after sitting and not being run for 25 years. Motor is not locked up. Can has been on the exhaust pipe the whole time. Back tires are up and one of the front tires is up. It has been converted to 12 volts and I am sure the battery is shot and needing replaced. My question is where do I start? Should I clean the gas tanks, clean the carb, make sure there is water in it? I don't know where to start and I just dont want to go cranking on it without some preliminary examinations.

[Don McCombs]

I would start by replacing the engine oil and filter. Let the oil drain for several days to get as much sludge out as you can. I’m not familiar enough with a B to know for sure, but I suspect that the oil pump will need to be primed before any starting attempt. Someone more knowledgeable will hopefully chime in. Next I would drain and flush the fuel tank. Include in that process cleaning the fuel strainer bowl and screen. Once you have done that, look down in the fuel tank with a flashlight to see if there is any rust, sediment or debris in the area of the fuel outlet. If so, clean all that up. Your carburetor should have a fuel drain plug or valve. Once you have fresh fuel onboard, open this drain to see if you have good fuel flow. If not, check back here. Check the condition of the sparkplugs, plug wires, ignition points before attempting a start. Replace as needed. Gap the plugs and points if those are replaced. I would not worry about changing gear box fluids at this point. That can happen once the tractor has been started. When the first start is attempted, pay particular attention to the oil pressure gauge. If it does start, you need positive oil pressure within 30 to 45 seconds, otherwise shut the engine off and re-prime the oil pump. Failure to do this can result in engine damage. Above all, if you are unsure about anything, get on this forum and ask.

[Jim Becker]

. . . I’m not familiar enough with a B to know for sure, but I suspect that the oil pump will need to be primed before any starting attempt. Someone more knowledgeable will hopefully chime in. . . . If it does start, you need positive oil pressure within 30 to 45 seconds, otherwise shut the engine off and re-prime the oil pump. . . .

The oil pump is in the oil pan, submerged in oil. There is no reason to prime it. Checking for pressure after it starts is important. If none, there is a problem to be located.

[Urbish]

Looks like Don has you covered. If there's any crud, rust, or scale in the fuel tank you will fight that forever (and get very acquainted with disassembling and cleaning your carburetor). I coated the inside of my B's fuel tank (and my H, too!) with POR-15 fuel tank liner. I am very happy with the results. I do not recommend putting on an inline fuel filter with these gravity fed systems as the flow may not keep up with demand when your fuel level is low.

You'll know you have everything dialed-in when you can crank start it like this:

[T-Mo]

Keep in mind, that a B is really an A with a narrow front and same size axles on both sides in the rear. A lot of parts from a A will fit a B. I once put a flywheel from a 200 on a B, so a lot of parts will interchange with other models in the Farmall line.

[DrWrecking]

I'm in the same boat! Have any pics of where you are starting from? How did you know it was converted to 12v? The people I bought mine from didn't have a clue. There's an alternator, so I assume 12v.

[staninlowerAL]

I'm in the same boat! Have any pics of where you are starting from? How did you know it was converted to 12v? The people I bought mine from didn't have a clue. There's an alternator, so I assume 12v.

Here's a link to a post that I made a few days ago about starting a Cub. A lot of the information has already been covered in the above responses. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=115499&p=920138#p920138 As far as 12v conversion, look for a 12v battery, the absence of an external VR (since usually the alternator is internally regulated and lastly, check the battery voltage and the alternator output with a meter. There's multiple ways to change from 6v to 12v and it involves more than the charging. Does your B have a magneto or a battery ignition? It's even possible to retain the magneto (if you have one) and have all the other electrics to be 12v. Usually the conversion does not involve changing the 6v starter motor, just run it on 12v but not more than a few seconds at a time. If your conversion includes an external coil then it should be 12v, preferably with an internal resistor. Sorry if this is confusing but there's quite a few ways to accomplish the same objective. If I were in your place I would look for someone close by that understands old tractors and see if you could get some help. JMHO Stan

[CSmith93]

I know I'm a little late to the answer hopefully you've made forward progress in the last couple months. Personally when I start a project I'd start with figuring out the condition of each system and start from there. I spent the last month going over my B that sat for the better part of a decade. I started with pulling the carb and fuel tank and cleaning/treating them. From there I changed the oil and just about every fluid I could. Then I moved on the ignition/starting system by changing the points and condenser in the Magneto, checking the timing gears in the Magneto were in the correct spot. Changed the plugs and she finally fired up on Wednesday and I took her to a show today. Hope this helps.

[patricktjms]

Maybe a coolant flush?

[Glen]

Hi,
Yes changing the coolant is good, if it looks old, or doesn't have enough protection for the Winter temperatures where the tractor is.
The experts on here recommend that people read the operator's manual. They have lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication.
There is a B operator's manual at the top of the page at Quick links, then go to PDF Manuals.
If you would rather, you can probably buy an operator's manual for the B.
They have said on here that Binder Books has lots of manuals, they are or were in Oregon, I think.
The cooling system holds about 3 3/8 gallons coolant, the manual says.
There is a specifications list near the back of the manual.