Farmall Cub

Ron, heres the deal.
You can resleeve only to the next size jump. So your H can be a Super with the Tisco kit. However if you elect to rebore make sure you jump to the 350 size which I think is 172cu. or 179cu. I have the 3 9/16 bore because mine started out as a Super 164cu. and has the Tisco kit to jump one size. Stay with your H head unless you like to spend money. Just mill it down and raise the compression a little. Buy the new manifold that matches the Super H carb. Fairly cheap and money well spent IMO. I'll and post some pics on all this. Most of what you seek I have already been there done that and used it. There were a few hickups along the way but the bugs where worked out.

RonHarper wrote:Thanks TJ for the tip. Oh by the way, are you familiar with the lift all hydraulic set up. Can it be installed on a non hydraulic H. Maybe I will put that question in a new post if I dont get too many answers here. Thanks TJ.

Ron,
As John said it can be easliy done . One thing is if you can find a pump with a #8 on it or a later casting code it it should be of the 800 pound pressure pump. Not the 600 pound pressure as was the earlier pumps. THen you can look for chicken teeth to find the auxiallary valve to give you 2 way pressure. I 've got one on my M works great.

Thanks WKPoor and TJ. Great info. It will really help. Ill keep you updated on my progress.

Here is the tractor now. Still no paint and I seem to be partial to the no sheetmetal appearance.


I have yet to install the power steering unit. I currently have the motor down repairing loose wrist pins. Previous builder issue! The bolster weights shown are really rare. I also have a set of creeper gears to put in. Spent 2yrs finding them. Front and rear tires and rims are new. Seat assembly was completely rebuilt.


This is a 169cu. motor with 180psi cranking pressure. SuperH carb too.

The throttle mod really smooths up the throttle. The shaft Earl made for me out of stainless. It idles perfectly in first slot and full throttle in the last.