Splitting an H Farmall

Thu Mar 23, 2006 11:41 am

I need to split an H Farmall to replace the clutch. I believe that I can handle the rear half safely but it has the narrow front end and I don't know how to stabilize the front so that it doesn't flop over. Your suggestions are appreciated. Dan

Thu Mar 23, 2006 11:50 am


You may not have to split the H to replace the clutch. Check out I&T manual IH-8, paragraph 197.


Thu Mar 23, 2006 1:19 pm

Dan, the best way i can think of to stabilize the front is to make some kind o outriggers ar an overhead lift. Unfortunatley the last time I remeber us splitting one of our Hs I was too young to remeber the details. As Eugene mentioed, it can be doen without splitting, but is tedious work. If you have the equipment I would go aheadd and split it. while you have it apart you mihgt want to chnage the fornt tranny selas unless they have been done recently.

Thu Mar 23, 2006 4:17 pm

Thanks John and Eugene. I think that we will need to split as we plan to also change out the flywheel and ring gear. But, I want to come up with a safe method to stabilize the front end. Other suggestions, anyone? Dan

Thu Mar 23, 2006 6:02 pm

Overhead lift (chain hoist) if you have support such as barn beams. If you don't mind doing it outside, a large tree limb. Cherry picker set at it's shortest length.

I use two heavy web straps to support the engine during splitting. One strap near the rear, one near the front (adjusted to center the weight) of the engine. The straps have a loop in each end so that I can tighten the strap around the engine so it doesn't slip. One strap goes around the engine in one direction, the second strap in the opposite direction. The two straps are lifted from a single point.


Thu Mar 23, 2006 7:31 pm

I don't remember exactly, but when we split my C we made a bracket out of angle iron and it bolted to the engine somewhere near teh top, we blocked the front tires so it wouildn't roll, and then we used an overhead lift to a beam, and started taking out bolts, it dind't tip over or anything, but it is a smaller tractor, so i don't konw....

Hope everything works out....


Thu Mar 23, 2006 10:10 pm

Eugene: Your last message has me thinking on how we might handle the front half. The framework for a canopy is made from oil-well pipe and will easily support the weight. I am wondering about looping one chain around the front of the engine and a second around the rear part of the engine. Each chain can be attached solidly by bolting it to the frame channel on the right and on the left side. This would prevent the motor from twisting and tipping to either side, serving the same function as the straps did in your example. A hoist from the canopy framework could then be attached to the two chains, providing support while maintaining an upright position. I believe that this will provide a safe method of working with the front half. Now for the back half. If I placed sheets of plywood under the tractor (an uneven dirt floor under the canopy) to provide a smooth surface, could the torque tube be supported on a transmission jack to allow the rear part of the tractor to be rolled away from the front, providing the space needed to change out the flywheel and clutch, then rolled forward to recouple the two halves. Having no experience in doing this, I have a couple of questions: A. should this method work and B. IS IT A SAFE WAY TO DO THE SPLIT? All suggestions/criticisms by Eugene and by other forum members are welcome, especially on the safety of this approach. Dan

Fri Mar 24, 2006 12:09 am

I use a very large commercial floor jack. Catch the center of the bellhousing in the cup of the floor jack. With a large tractor it takes 3 people, to one on each tire and one of the floor jack to roll the tractor backward. We do this on a concrete shop floor. If the dirt floor is fairly even the plywood should work. With the H you probably can do the split yourself.

If you get the rear slid back. You can use comealong's to pull the halves together.

I have a splitting frame made of 6x6s, posts and (top) cross member. Each leg is cross braced with its base. Each leg is cross braced to the top member so that it doesn't rack. It's currently disassemble and laying along the shop wall. Pain to set up and move.

Last time Dad and I used the splitting frame was on Dad's 77 Oliver diesel. My brother was using the 77 with loader digging dirt. Broke the bellhousing. We jacked up the center of the tractor and chained both halves of the tractor to the loader then towed the tractor back to the shop. Dad was not a happy camper for a while.