Farmall H hydraulics

[kcsharp]

I picked up a spring tine cultivator for my H and need some help with understanding the hydraulics. I can pick up the implement fine. Doest leak down. When I go to lower it to cultivate the garden spot it wants to sink to the depth of the whole cultivator platform. Mayne im going to lower on the lever but I tried to barley drop it down several times.

With H hydraulics, can I barely lower the thing so the tines are only about half In the ground? When I try and bump it to lower it and take off it just burries the implement into I can't pull it (maybe that's by design idk). After lowering the rod I'm bringing the hydraulic catch back on the driver side of the slot to hold it as I thought that would keep it where it's at and not let the implement go deeper.

[Rick Spivey]

I could be wrong, and others will correct me, but I believe the H hydraulics have a "lift" function only. I don't believe they can be "positioned" like today's modern version. So any digging implements will need some sort of gauge wheel to set the depth.

[v w]

I don't recall any gague wheels on an H or M. They are indeed one way hydraulics. The super M had two way, I don;t know about super H's. There was a quick easy adjustment to the cultivator, I can't remember what but that was seventy years ago. I'm sure Jim Becker would know so if he doesn't chime in PM him. Vern

[SONNY]

H is only a 1- way system , lift only, gravity down and no in between. All ya gotta do is put cylinder stops on the cylinder itself. They come in sets of different lengths and you put the amount needed to hold the depth. The old belly pumps were junk from the factory anyway and most of the tractors got live pumps and 2- way valves installed down the road. Made a whole new tractor out of them!

[Jim Becker]

. . . I'm sure Jim Becker would . . .

I posted a comment over on YT, where this question came with a picture that was of some help:

The hydraulics on an H or M originally were there to lift the implements off the ground. The implements had levers, adjustable stops, or whatever to control operating depth. Something like your cultivator may have had gauge wheels as well. The valves weren't designed for easy fine control. It is about impossible to tell from the picture, but it looks to me like the geometry is off-kilter on your home-made 3-point hitch. That is probably your real problem. What is the vertical distance from the front socket of your top link and the front sockets of the lower links? How does it compare to the same measurement of the rear sockets?

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