Coil wire?

[Pops140]

OK let me start off by saying that I don't know what I would do with out this forum. Now that that's clear, young Buck has messed up again. (Don't know that I can still call myself young buck at 33 years of age) but over my time on this site I have gathered that I am probably on the younger side of the spectrum, with you wonderful people. Correct me if I'm wrong. I'll stop rambling. Which wire goes to the plus on-the-go coil there's two wires going to the coil and I may have crossed them. And I swapped them and I'm still not getting a spark on my 3414, I've went through the distributor and it seems to be tip top, do I have to polarise something. Im Missing something here what else could be stopping the spark I made sure all the gear selectors are in neutral for the safety switch. (If it has one). I'm stumped. I also went through the connections and replaced some ratty wiring. What else can I look at that might be affecting the spark

[Slim140]

Your hot wire coming from your battery source goes to the + terminal, and the - terminal on the coil goes to the distributor.
Are you sure your hot wire feeding the coil has power when you turn your switch on?

[Pops140]

Thank you Mr Nelson. I appreciate it. Any opinion on what else could b hindering ins my spark I wasn't sure of the exact breaker gap when I did the points so I put it to .20 like my 140 I have since found out that it's supposed to be .14 is that enough of a space to cause it not to spark?

[Slim140]

If it's supposed to be .014" I would say it needs to be .014", that's a big difference when dealing with the points gap.

[Landreo]

You have to have electricity to the coil, the coil has to be a good working coil, the condenser has to work, and the points have to open and close. Set the gap at what it should be, .014 sounds correct when on the top of the lobe. A too large gap may keep the points from closing. File the points to make sure they are clean, check the coil to make sure it is getting voltage. Rotate the engine until the points close. Flip the points open with your finger and you should get a spark out of the coil wire and likely a small jolt into your finger.

[Eugene]

I went through the distributor.

Disconnect the wire on the side of the distributor. Lay the spark plug type wire from distributor end of the coil wire about 1/4" from the engine block. Ignition switch on, touch the end of the disconnected distributor wire to metal.

Every time you touch the wire and remove it from the metal you should get a spark from the coil wire adjacent to the engine block.

If you get a spark, the problem is inside the distributor. Common mistake. There is an insulator passing through the side of the distributor. Points and condenser have to be insulated from the distributor case.

No spark. Multi-meter, start checking for battery voltage at the distributor and work back towards the battery until you find voltage. Problem will be the previous wire or appliance checked not showing voltage.

[Pops140]

OK Eugene thanks now we're getting somewhere. Sorry for the delayed responses I work full-time in the infancy of a new hvac install company. I've opened, but the tractor is at my father's I'm going to go over there this weekend and check these steps and see where my problems lye. Very much appreciate the help

[Pops140]

So when you say " disconnect the coil wire" do you mean the spark plug type wire? I know you specified that but you also said "put it a 1/4 away from metal". Do you mean to touch that wire to metal? Or are you saying leave that ing/coil wire. And then unhook another wire to be touched to the metal? Please specify I think I'm confused. I tried what you said but I only unconnected the plug type wire and touched it to metal. But got no spark, but I don't k of if I even did that correctly. Any way thanks so much for your time I very much appreciate it. I'm so close to getting this thing to fire. I know it's something simple. What were you saying about the distributor grounding itself out, some how do I safe guard for this the wash RE are old and crack s up. Where can I get some of the type of washers for the distributor. Thanks again

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Maybe I can give you a step by step that will help. You can use either a voltmeter or a test light for this.

Ignition switch on, check + side of coil (side going to switch) It should have voltage anytime switch is on. If no voltage work back toward switch and beyond it to find why no voltage.

If voltage at + side of coil move to negative side. Engine stops most of time with points closed, which provides a ground for coil, so no voltage there would be normal. As engine is cranked over the voltage should be on when points open and off when points close so the light flashing or meter jumping would be normal.

If no voltage at - side of coil at anytime, disconnect wire from coil to distributor. If still no voltage at - side, replace coil. If voltage at - side when wire removed, check distributor for short, either points stuck, condenser shorted, or insulator or wires shorted.

If voltage at - side of coil all the time engine is cranking, most likely burned points, but could also be bad wire between distributor and coil, or bad connection. Could even be points out of adjustment. I have seen points that had rusted and the spring broken, causing an open, and contacts that have fallen off of points.

let us know what you find after doing this.

[Pops140]

OK the tractor is over at y fathers garage I'm going over to work on it later. But when I was there last I had voltage on both sides + and - when the key is on is that normal I think even when the points are open.

[Pops140]

I really appreciate you taking time out of your day to assist me

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

yes, with the points open that is normal. When you crank the engine over it should come and go.