'53 Super C Advice

[Jim Becker]

Jim:

You are right. No J....

-- what can I say.. still getting used to one working eyeball... and it waters a lot

It was the right side of the picture.

[markcm28]

Casting date codes and the engine number can be used to get the approximate age and possibly narrow down the range of the serial number.

Is there a link for looking up approximate dates using the engine number? I pulled FCM 196920 G off of the Super C engine. (Confirmed as a Super C with taller grill, more space between tank and hydrolics, curved pedals.) The casting codes have Y for the year. Also not sure where to look that up. The links I have are for Cubs only. Thanks again!

[Don McCombs]

Casting codes are the same for Cubs and other letter series tractors. Y = 1953.

[Jim Becker]

Engine numbers are not as well documented as serial numbers. But in this case you lucked out. The Wisconsin Historical Society McCormick International Harvester Collection has many serial numbers and some engine numbers posted. Right here is the starting point http://www.wisconsinhistory.org/libraryarchives/ihc/. You may want to go poke around there as you have time. Here is what it will tell you related to your engine number. The first Super C built in December 1953 had serial number 186137 and engine number 195033. The first Super C built in January 1954 had serial number 187788 and engine number 196999. There is no guarantee that engines were used in absolutely numerical sequence. However, your engine number is between the two I just listed so it is very likely that your tractor was built in December 1953 and had a serial number between 186137 and 187788.

This all assumes your engine is the original to that tractor. Your multiple "Y" year codes tend to confirm that as well.

[markcm28]

Awesome! And great link. That's neat seeing the original documents. Looks like it'll be useful in identying implements as well. Thanks!

[Eugene]

So far I've drained the gas, cleaned the sediment bowl (filthy), cleaned the air cleaner (filthier), and pressure washed it (filthiest). Also, when I first hooked up a new battery (positive ground), the starter made a spinning noise (<---technical term), now it won't.

1) Remove the starter then reset the starter. Clean up all battery cable connections.
2) Remove spark plugs. See if engine turns over with starter. If not, tractor in high gear and rock tractor forward and backward to see if engine moves.
3) Compression test, dry then wet if engine moves.

[Jim Becker]

Awesome! And great link. That's neat seeing the original documents. Looks like it'll be useful in identying implements as well. Thanks!

I should have given you this pointer straight into one of the search results. Hopefully this long link will work.
http://content.wisconsinhistory.org/cdm4/results.php?CISORESTMP=results.php&CISOVIEWTMP=item_viewer.php&CISOMODE=grid&CISOGRID=thumbnail,A,1;title,A,1;type,A,0;date,200,0;none,A,0;20;title,date,none,none,none&CISOBIB=title,A,1,N;machin,A,0,N;model,200,0,N;none,A,0,N;none,A,0,N;20;title,none,none,none,none&CISOTHUMB=20%20%284x5%29;title,none,none,none,none&CISOTITLE=20;title,none,none,none,none&CISOHIERA=20;machin,title,none,none,none&CISOSUPPRESS=1&CISOTYPE=link&CISOOP1=exact&CISOFIELD1=title&CISOBOX1=white+farmall&CISOOP2=exact&CISOFIELD2=CISOSEARCHALL&CISOBOX2=&CISOOP3=exact&CISOFIELD3=CISOSEARCHALL&CISOBOX3=&CISOOP4=exact&CISOFIELD4=CISOSEARCHALL&CISOBOX4=&c=exact&CISOROOT=%2Fihc

[markcm28]

A quick update for those interested:

I loaded up the frozen Super C and hauled it closer to home. My very gracious parents have allowed me to occupy half a barn with it and its scattered parts, so it is now only a 10 minute drive from home instead of the previous 45.
With very little mechanical experience, I'm really walking into this blindfolded, but also enjoying the heck out of it. I took the engine block off after not having enough patience to let ATF do its magic on the pistons. The first cylinder had apparently drained through, so I'm assuming it is unfrozen, but 2-4 are still holding. Maybe it wasn't frozen to begin with. I filled them before taking the block off. I tapped on them with wood, but not very hard or for very long. The tires all held air, atleast for as long as I was there, so it was very easy to rock back and forth. I did that for a while, too, but to no avail. So I've had the fluid soaking since Monday evening.

Sidenote: When I took off the drain cap for the radiator, not a single drop of fluid came out. I then unscrewed the downpipe, and boy, it came rushing out! I was using a gas can spout for a funnel, so I was able to shove it up in there and direct the other half of coolant that wasn't on the floor into a bucket. The pipe was completely clogged with gunk. Good times.

Thanks again to everyone for the tips and advice and to Rudi for the manuals!

[markcm28]

Alright! Another update before I shamelessly beg for help. I also changed the name of the thread since my questions will now focus on this tractor.

After cleaning some of the gunk and old oil out of the cylinders, I could see that there was a film of rust on the second cylinder. There was my culprit. After a week of soaking, it was still holding ATF while other 3 had drained.

Meanwhile, My wife's battery died. Took it to my mechanic to test it, and while I was there, I told him what I was up to. He ended up lending me a few tools to bolt over the frozen cylinder and crank on until it shoved it down. Sure enough, it worked like a charm, and with ease at that. I also borrowed a honing bit, and now I have every cylinder shining like they were in the factory. Progress!

So now, I think I'm at the point where I want to go ahead and give things a good cleaning, and slap them back together to start the next round of diagnostics. So, here come my questions...

Are there torque specs/a Service Manual available for the Super C online? I've searched this forum, but only found Cub specs. And are there specs for every nut and bolt on the tractor? With and without washers? I've got the head, exhaust, valve cover, oil pan, gas tank/strainer/fuel line, air cleaner, and carb to slap back on there. Also, what should I apply, if anything, on the threads of the fuel line?

Thanks for the help!