Acquired a Farmall 230

[cjet69]

The parts are all here for the brake job. These are for both the 230 and Super C. We already had new brake discs for the Super C so I got another set for the 230 and then seals, springs, and O-rings for both. The seals, springs, and O-rings came from Hamilton Bob's. First time I ordered from them, and it went smoothly and at a good price.

[cjet69]

Hung the brake/clutch return springs on a round rod and put some weight on them so I could paint them. Just rattle canned these to make it easy. These will go on the 230 and Super C.

[cjet69]

Got going on the brakes for the Super C and 230 and forgot to take pics. Anyway, the brake jobs are done complete with new seals, and they work great on both tractors. We are going to change the gear lube in the Super C and then its done for now. The 230 needs the front crank seal changed, new temp gauge installed, and then filled up with antifreeze.

[cjet69]

Pulled the 230 into the shop earlier this week and started going after the front main seal. Had to remove the sheet metal, rad, and front bolster to get access to the front crank pulley. These are pressed on and can be a little tough to pull. The IT manual shows a bearing splitter and a big puller for removal and I watched several video's where guy's make a U-shaped pull plate to slide behind the pulley and use a bottle jack or threaded rod to push on the end of the crank. I went with drilling and tapping the pulley for some 3/8 bolts along with a Snap-On puller. I put as much pressure on the puller as I dared and then hit it with the Acetylene torch. About 15/20 seconds of heat and I heard it pop loose. Next up is to remove the governor so I can pull the front cover and get the seal changed. Rather than loading a bunch of pics I put a slideshow together that shows from the start to where is sits now.

[Greenthumbfarms]

What did you have to do to remove the brake assembly? I have a 230 and hy-tran it leaking out from behind the brake ass-'y and i need to tear down and repair before the tractor rides start

[cjet69]

What did you have to do to remove the brake assembly? I have a 230 and hy-tran it leaking out from behind the brake ass-'y and i need to tear down and repair before the tractor rides start

I think I started with the actuator adjusting bolt that goes through the brake pedal.

Then remove the 5 bolts holding the brake housing on and remove housing. I believe the brake actuator comes off with this. Remove the inner brake disc.

Then you need to remove the bull pinion seal retainer. This is #1 in the parts pic.

There are notches to get a thin chisel or scraper to separate it from the bearing cage, #6 in the above pic. This has an O-ring on it so you have to work at it a bit to slide it out. The tough part was getting it started moving out. Keep track of the orientation so you can get it back on correctly. Check the bull pinion shaft for excess play. If you have a bunch of play you may need to replace the bearing. Mine were good so I didn't need to go any further.

[Greenthumbfarms]

Thanks! I need to tear it apart and it's surely a good time to check out brake disks and bearings. Haven't had it apart before

[cjet69]

Finally got back out to the shop and removed the governor housing and timing cover. Need to clean the parts up and install the new seal. I removed the water temp sensor that someone had cut the line about halfway back to the gauge. I already have the new gauge for it waiting to be installed.

[cjet69]

Cleaned up the timing cover and removed the old crank seal. Welded up a small rust hole, sandblasted it, and shot some primer on the inside. Its ready for the new seal to be installed. While the governor is off, I think I will check the bearings, seals, springs, and check for wear in the spring mounting holes.

[cjet69]

a couple more pics.

[cjet69]

After some inspection on the governor, it doesn't have much wear in the spring holes and the needle bearings feel smooth, so I will just clean it up and put it back on the way it is. I suppose I should clean up the front of the engine and put some paint on what is exposed with the front end removed.

[cjet69]

Cleaned up the governor housing and pulley today. Shot some rattle can primer and paint on them along with the timing gear cover. Only painted them to prevent rust for now.

[cjet69]

Scraped the old timing cover gasket off the front of the engine and cleaned a bunch of greasy crud out of the webbing on the front of the block.

[cjet69]

My original plan was to just get the oil seal replaced, but at this point with the whole front end off I figure it would be easier to do some extra paint work now and then I won't have to pull everything back apart to paint later. I started by scraping all of the greasy crud out of the inside of the steering housing. Plan to sandblast it to finish cleaning area's that I couldn't clean by hand. When I removed the front bolster and wheels , I found the tube to be half full of water. I need to see if there is a drain hole somewhere on it. Don't want that filling up, freezing, and breaking it.

[cjet69]

I noticed some oil weeping out of the steering gear housing so i decided to pull it apart and change the seals. Then I could put some sealer on the gaskets and bolts to try and stop the leaks. Pulled the gear assy apart and noticed a crack in the lower bearing seal cage plate. I'm stating to clean things up now to get a good look at it. Figure on seeing what a used one costs and then decide if I will weld/braze this one up.