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Please Help !!

Farmall Super A, AV, 100, 130, & 140 1939 - 1973
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Max_Wedge
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Please Help !!

Postby Max_Wedge » Sat Jul 14, 2007 8:21 pm

I put the carb back on the 100 and it will not run in gear w/o the choke being on. It also feels like it has less power than before. Here is what I have done and tried.
1) Cleaned all jets
2) Replaced the main needle valve
3) New bowl gasket
4) New manifold gasket
5) Set float height at 1 3/16 inches
6) Removed old fuel filter
7) Cleaned the sediment bowl
8) Cleaned the tank
9) I have raised and lowered the float travel with no effect
10) Adjusted the idle air and main needle at rest

What could it be? The amount of fuel in the bowl is about 1/2 to 5/8 of an inch deep. The strainer is clean also. The carb did not have a strainer on it to begin with, could the strainer be limiting the flow of fuel to the bowl? I am really grasping at straws because I am at my wits end.
Thanks
Max
1955 Farmall 100 (Ol' Bessie), 1982 Honda CBX, the Six Cylinder SuperBike and a 2003 Ram HEMI

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Bigdog
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Postby Bigdog » Sat Jul 14, 2007 8:42 pm

If by strainer you mean an inline filter then yes, get rid of it. Some filters can seriously restrict the flow on gravity feed systems. There are some filters out there for gravity feed setups though.
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Max_Wedge
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Postby Max_Wedge » Sat Jul 14, 2007 9:10 pm

Bigdog wrote:If by strainer you mean an inline filter then yes, get rid of it. Some filters can seriously restrict the flow on gravity feed systems. There are some filters out there for gravity feed setups though.

No, I meant the strainer in the elbow from the fuel line.
1955 Farmall 100 (Ol' Bessie), 1982 Honda CBX, the Six Cylinder SuperBike and a 2003 Ram HEMI

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Postby Bigdog » Sat Jul 14, 2007 9:13 pm

The symptoms you describe are related to either not enough fuel or too much air. If you are reasonably sure the fuel flow is good check for air infiltration around the manifold mating surfaces.
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Max_Wedge
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Postby Max_Wedge » Sat Jul 14, 2007 9:23 pm

What about float level? How important is float travel?
1955 Farmall 100 (Ol' Bessie), 1982 Honda CBX, the Six Cylinder SuperBike and a 2003 Ram HEMI

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Postby Eugene » Sat Jul 14, 2007 10:45 pm

Question. When you start the tractor - does it run well for a minute or two then start to struggle?

Did you dip the carburator in carburator cleaner? I'm thinking one or both circuits in the carburator are partially plugged.

Just throwing out ideas.

Check the float drop. - Perhaps the hinge is hanging up or the tab on the back is to tight - not letting the float drop - not opening up the needle valve.

Check to see that the gasket is not covering any of the holes in the carburator body. Sometime gaskets get put on upside down.

Float travel - that's check the float drop. Gas level in the bowl - as a guess the bowl should be half full or perhaps a bit more.

If the carburator checks out. Try an unlit propane torch around the manifold with the tractor running. Air leaks sucking in the unlit propane will cause the engine to rev up.

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Postby Max_Wedge » Sun Jul 15, 2007 5:16 pm

Well I did the propane trick and the ether trick. I could not detect any leaks with either, but the ether would make the engine bog down, which I thought was strange. What if I adjust the governor rod, would this help, hurt or be indifferent? I really need some help here folks.
Max
1955 Farmall 100 (Ol' Bessie), 1982 Honda CBX, the Six Cylinder SuperBike and a 2003 Ram HEMI

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Postby Daniel H. » Sun Jul 15, 2007 5:37 pm

You didn't, by chance, leave the venturi out when you reassembled the carburetor did you? (Don't ask) Also, how many turns is the idle screw backed out.
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Postby Eugene » Sun Jul 15, 2007 6:01 pm

What if I adjust the governor rod, would this help, hurt or be indifferent? I really need some help here folks.


Govenor rod adjustment isn't going to make any difference. You can disconnect the govenor rod at the carburator and operate the carburator by hand.

Choke control rod and govenor rod connected to the wrong arms on the carburator. Suggest disconnecting both rods and operating the carburator by hand.

Two additional suggestions. Walk away from the tractor for a day or two - then give it another try. Have one of your farmer or mechanically inclined friends look at it.

The symptoms described are carburation.

What else have I done stupid with carburators? Put the butterfly valve in on the wrong side of the shaft. Wrong needle valve and seat in the carburator kit - seat to tall.

Eugene
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Postby Max_Wedge » Sun Jul 15, 2007 6:55 pm

Daniel H. wrote:You didn't, by chance, leave the venturi out when you reassembled the carburetor did you? (Don't ask) Also, how many turns is the idle screw backed out.

The venturi is in there. Idle air screw is 1 1/2 turns and the main needle is turned 1 1/2 turns out from where it starts sputtering at high idle.
1955 Farmall 100 (Ol' Bessie), 1982 Honda CBX, the Six Cylinder SuperBike and a 2003 Ram HEMI

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Postby Don McCombs » Sun Jul 15, 2007 7:04 pm

Eugene wrote:Did you dip the carburetor in carburetor cleaner? I'm thinking one or both circuits in the carburetor are partially plugged.


I couldn't see whether this question was answered.
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Daniel H.
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Postby Daniel H. » Sun Jul 15, 2007 8:34 pm

the main needle is turned 1 1/2 turns out from where it starts sputtering at high idle.


Is this a Zenith carb? If so, is it a dual fuel carburetor? The gas Zenith has only one screw.
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Max_Wedge
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Postby Max_Wedge » Sun Jul 15, 2007 9:34 pm

Don McCombs wrote:
Eugene wrote:Did you dip the carburetor in carburetor cleaner? I'm thinking one or both circuits in the carburetor are partially plugged.


I couldn't see whether this question was answered.

I took the carb apart and ultrasonically cleaned it in the lab where I work. I pulled the main needle out, the idle jet out, pulled the bowl off, removed the floats and U/S cleaned them. Then I sprayed all openings, jets and orifices with Berryman's carb cleaner followed by compressed air. All circuits appeared to be fully open.
1955 Farmall 100 (Ol' Bessie), 1982 Honda CBX, the Six Cylinder SuperBike and a 2003 Ram HEMI

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Max_Wedge
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Postby Max_Wedge » Sun Jul 15, 2007 9:38 pm

Daniel H. wrote:
the main needle is turned 1 1/2 turns out from where it starts sputtering at high idle.


Is this a Zenith carb? If so, is it a dual fuel carburetor? The gas Zenith has only one screw.

The man at the IH shop in Urbana said this carb has a "Power Valve". Essentially, it has a screw in needle valve in the main jet. I know this Zenith to be a replacement carb. It looks very similar to a carb off of a Gravely, but the IH man showed parts for it in his book. Strangely, we could not find the carb number, but all of the parts in the schematic matched up to what I had.
1955 Farmall 100 (Ol' Bessie), 1982 Honda CBX, the Six Cylinder SuperBike and a 2003 Ram HEMI

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Max_Wedge
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Postby Max_Wedge » Sun Jul 15, 2007 10:03 pm

I was surfing around eBay and found this carb. It looks just like mine, except it does not say bendix on the side.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Gravely-Model-L-Zen ... dZViewItem
1955 Farmall 100 (Ol' Bessie), 1982 Honda CBX, the Six Cylinder SuperBike and a 2003 Ram HEMI


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