Farmall 100, 1954 - 1973
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The 130 I bought has the 12 V already done, but the lights are not connected. Do I just have to replace the bulds, or will the switch and Alt. gauge have to go as well. Also how many positions does the original switch have. This one only has 3 positions is this correct for the 130?
just need to put in correct bublbs. 130 switch would be 3 position, off, dim, bright
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government
to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the
government lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." Patrick Henry
Before I ruin another pair of lights, can somebody tell me how to connect the wires to the sealed bulbs? I know that the Black is positive and the pink is negative, shoot I just connected one to each side of the bulb. I have checked for power to the ends of the wires, and I do have the juice but when they are connected to the bulbs they will not work(new ones I might add). But the power is there.
It shouldn't matter which way you connect them, as long as you're really connecting to positive and negative terminals on the bulbs. Are you sure you don't have hi-beam/lo-beam bulbs?
Once again I stopped at the local NAPA and this is what they gave me. They state for off the road Tractor 12Volts off roa lighting sealed beam--411. I go to the web site and see if they are on there. Heres the info on the site::
Headlight Bulb - Low Beam - Ag
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tax and shipping not included
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Fits Equipment Year:Universal
Fits Equipment Model:Universal
Bulb Type:Sealed Beam
Electrical Rating:12.8 Volt/ 35 Watt
Boy do I feel like a dummny..........Sorry Matt. It was the switch. I disconnected the wires from the switch, and re-connected direct to Battery and behold there was light. So I removed the switch and disassembled it, cleaned it and put a little diaelectic grease in it, and presto the switch works like new again. I keep forgetting about the age of this thing. It is as old as I, and I too am a little bit rusty.
7 posts • Page 1 of 1
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