Tue Jul 15, 2014 10:24 am
BTW, I spent sick time and looked through every thread here that had to do with A's. enjoyed it, and learned a lot!
Tue Jul 15, 2014 10:33 am
I took the valve cover off yesterday, and since I do not have a hand crank, turned the engine over by strong-arming the crankshaft pulley. NOT easy! BUT! She turned, and all the valves moved. So, the ENGINE IS NOT FROZEN. I also removed the carburetor for cleaning and a rebuild. I will remove the oil pan soon.
I wouldn't remove the pan yet. Drain the oil (look for anything unusual--water, bits and pieces of metal, etc) and refill, see if the magneto is making spark, and when the carb is rebuilt, try to start it. That will tell you a lot about the true condition of the engine.
Tue Jul 15, 2014 10:51 am
I agree with Al, I wouldn't pull the pan yet either.
Also, if you haven't already, clear all the clutter out from around the tractor to give yourself some working room.
Get yourself a "pony tank" and get it running. Without a radiator, you will only be able to run the engine for a very short time, unless you adapt the water connections so that you can use a garden hose to force water through the engine to keep it cool.
So slow and take your time.
Tue Jul 15, 2014 11:14 am
Capnball wrote:I also removed the carburetor for cleaning and a rebuild.
Go ahead and clean it thoroughly, but I recommend not buying a rebuild kit or any parts until you know you need them, except perhaps the bowl and carb to manifold gaskets.
Tue Jul 15, 2014 12:17 pm
+1 with Ray and Al.
The main thing you want to accomplish at this point is to find out if you have a "runner." Odds are if it isn't seized, it will run. These old machines will amaze you.
Do all the basic service to the engine to make sure you aren't going to make things any worse than they already are. Dump the oil and put fresh in (don't worry about the filter at this point). Clean and gap the ignition points. Do a basic cleanout of the carburetor. Provide a clean fuel supply to the carburetor (whether that's the original gas tank or an external fuel can and hose). Hook up a battery. Pull out the ignition switch. Hit the button, and see what happens.
Thu Jul 17, 2014 6:59 pm
That's great that the motor is not stuck. I was worried about that after seeing the open-topped manifold. Good luck on your refurb. Take it slow and steady and thoroughly research each step as you go. I'll tell you one thing, when you do get it running it will be something you'll always remember!
Thu Jul 17, 2014 8:08 pm
Thanks again for all the replies, guys! So, update: I haven't gotten to work on the tractor much, just a few minutes here and there, but I have gotten a few things done. I removed the carburetor and disassembled it, and gave it a cleaning. I used kerosene and brake/parts cleaner- all I had on hand. Hope I didn't ruin anything.
Anyhow, the carb was solid gum and varnish inside, and I got 99.5% out. I also opened up every passage way, and got the float-valve (?) working. Going to need a new main gasket, and a new float. The old float is corroded, and has gas in one side. Other than that, the carb is looking a ton better!
I also removed the manifold, and welded patches over the two holes it it. I think it'll be fine for now. I cleaned up the broken exhaust pipe that is stuck in the outlet, and will weld a threaded pipe coupler on. I bought a coupler and a section of pipe with threads on one end. I have a muffler that Papa had stuck on the A with a hose clamp, that I will weld on the threaded pipe. It won't be correct, but it'll do for now. Just need a soup can to throw over it.
I cleaned the governor up real good, not quite sure what all needs to be done to it, other than the arm that goes to the carb was just sitting on the shaft with no clamp bolt, and a lot of slop. Gotta fix that. Read Mr. Chauvin's fix for a similar slop problem on a Cub- gotta do something to mine.
So far, nearly every gasket I have dealt with has crumbled. The carb-to-manifold gasket seems ok, but I need a new valve cover gasket, governor housing gasket, radiator gasket, magneto gasket(s), and manifold gasket. Getting closer to just ordering a complete gasket set.
Thu Jul 17, 2014 11:22 pm
I wasn't putting down the A models!---Like I said I own and mow with mine and my Super A just sits here right now because it needs an awful lot of work done on it before I can use it!---I like both models!---the Super A will get one of my homemade 3-pt. hitches put on it when I get the tractor fixed!I do understand the personal vs value issue, so go for the fix-up!---glad you found the motor to be NOT stuck!---thats a great sign towards the starting point! thanks; sonny
Fri Jul 18, 2014 6:46 pm
I am glad to hear that you are still moving along with your repairs. Don't get in any hurry, because that will only cost you more money and time in the long run. Remember that these post from we here on this site are only suggestions, and that this is your tractor to do with what you will. It sounds like a good idea to get the gasket set, because I think you will need most of them before you are through. As for your float it is possible to repair it with a little time and material. If you put it in the freezer for a little while, and then take it out and put it in a cup of hot water, you should be able to see where the float is leaking. Good luck and let us know if you need more suggestions.
Fri Jul 18, 2014 9:36 pm
The broken exhaust pipe can be removed from the manifold with a hack saw blade, screwdriver, pick, and lots of patience. If threads are good then no welding required. Check with other knowledgable people on here about holes in manifold to make sure they were not weep holes. Were they on bottom side of exhaust manifold?
Tue Jul 29, 2014 10:32 am
Hey, sorry it's been awhile since my last post. I have been around, I promise.
The manifold holes were most definitely rust holes, and were located just below the threads for the stack.
Worst news so far: The crankcase has mud dauber nests INSIDE it.
Any suggestions on cleaning them out? Pressure washer?
I drained the oil. No water. Dropped the oil pan, and there were pieces of said insect nests in it, along with a few very oily insects. I guess they must have gotten into the crankcase via the open manifold, and the open timing gears where the governor had been removed. So, a thorough inspection and cleaning of the crankcase is in order. I have removed the front end of the tractor so I can get to the timing gears to clean the mud dauber nests out of them. I think this is where most of them will be. When I turned the crank pulley by hand, pieces of mud dauber nests fell out of the timing gear area into the bottom of the crankcase.
I also pulled the gas tank, and cleaned the bowl assembly thoroughly. Isn't the bowl supposed to have a screen of sorts in the top of it, to strain outgoing fuel? It didn't have one. What's a good cheap way to get the crud and varnish out of the gas tank?
Yesterday, I ordered an engine gasket set, bowl gasket, and carb kit from Yesterday's Tractors. Does anyone know if that set comes with the front crankshaft seal? Figured I'd replace that, since I will have the front engine cover off, anyway.
Any tips on pulling the crankshaft pulley?
Tue Jul 29, 2014 10:46 am
Oh, and what's a good way to clean mineral deposits out of the coolant system- radiator especially?
Tue Jul 29, 2014 11:46 am
Capnball wrote: I cleaned up the broken exhaust pipe that is stuck in the outlet, and will weld a threaded pipe coupler on.
You don't want to do that. The tractor has the remains of a pneumatic lift system on it. If you decide to repair that system to use mounted equipment, the manifold needs to have a pressure valve on top rather than a pipe. Your alternative would be to switch everything over for hand lift. But that requires finding the hand lift packages for each implement.
By the way, a few cultivator parts are on the tractor. The rest may be around somewhere.
I can also see that the tractor had a 12-volt battery installed. There is an extra bit welded to the generator bracket (the tube at the rear) suggesting that someone mounted an alternator to charge the 12-volt battery. The generator you found looks like the correct one.
Tue Jul 29, 2014 9:05 pm
Hows the condition of the magneto? Make sure all of the gaskets on it are good. If not, replace them immediately. Smallest amount of water/moister can really screw with em and prevent proper spark.
Also, this is more a final process step, but make sure the valve gap/lash is correct. If you plan on starting the engine its important to have things set right. .014 inches (HOT) is the gap, but since its a cold engine, I would do .016 inches to start with.
If you need to pull the mag (For example, you can can't replace the condenser unless you take it off), re-timing is easy if you don't know how to do it.
Tue Jul 29, 2014 10:11 pm
Mike, thanks for the advice, but- per my original post, I don't even have a magneto. Mine burned in a house fire in 2007. So, a magneto is one of the first things on the list of things to get. I'm working on whatever I can between now and when I get a magneto, which I'm looking for.
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