Tue Apr 08, 2014 11:00 am
CPIII wrote:I plan on masking off the parts that require a good electrical connection. My A has a Magneto and . . .
If you remove the field windings from the starter, do not coat the area where the shoe poles contact the inside of the housing. They need a tight mechanical connection to the housing. Also, do not paint the housing of the magneto. It just encourages more paths for current to jump to places you don't want it to go. Magnetos are happiest when they are clean and dry.
Tue Apr 08, 2014 11:28 am
Will do Jim...thanks for the reply...As far as the magneto goes.....i live by the "If it ain't broke don't fix it" rule....When the time comes that my mag does need attention it will go the same way as my cub mag went......straight to Cecil's for repair.
Wed Apr 09, 2014 2:05 pm
John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:You can't loose much by giving it a try. If you have a lathe or access to one, put the armature in it and either use a wide fine file or emery cloth withe a backer, such as a file to smooth and even it. You can just hold it down and wrap emery cloth around it, but that will not get it quite as even. Once that is done use a knife point to clean the spaces/insulators between each segment. I noticed one of the brushes is a lot shorter than the others, it may not have been making good contact and burning off, causing all the arcing on the armature. If you happen to have a generator/starter place in your area, they can do it right, but expect around an $80 to $100 bill if you do.
I cleaned up the commutator last night and I ordered a rebuild kit. So hopefully I will have a working starter by the middle of next week. Otherwise I have a lead on swapping my spare cub starter for an A stater.....but I really would like to get this one going if I could. Thanks for all the help.
Wed Apr 16, 2014 6:37 am
Well here is an update.
Carb - installed the Helicoil last night....looks good....so one down.
Starter - Installed the rebuild kit on Monday night.....not good..... bunch of sparks and very little or no rotation.....I posted a listing on the vine hoping to trade a good cub starter for a good A starter. Has anyone purchased the supposedly new OEM starters off of eBay that run about $120?
Governor - I double checked the amount of play in the arm and it wasn't as bad as I first thought....there is no real wobble (Not sure why I thought there was)...there is some in/out play...about ~1/8". So I think I am actually good on the governor end of things.
Cows - My tractor is at my parents house in Shiner, Texas. They have leased out their place to the neighbor and the neighbor has 6 cows on the place. Well thanks to the cows I now have no spark plug wires left. So I will have to buy a new set and take them on and off when I leave until I can get it home.
Fri Apr 18, 2014 3:19 pm
Better if you can drag the tractor out of the barn/pasture and locate it somewhere else where the cows can't get to it.
Believe me, they won't stop at your spark plug wires!!!
Mon Apr 21, 2014 9:52 am
I am trying to get it running so that I can drive it onto a trailer and bring it home but that won't be until after May 10. So for now I have removed everything that is chew-able and take it back to Tomball with me. I have removed the plug wires, grill and hood. Anything else you suggest I take home with me? I don't have a cloth covered seat so that should be good. I can't think of anything else myself....
Thanks for the reply Matt!
Wed Apr 23, 2014 7:44 am
The carb, governor and starter motor issues you appear to have are all fixable...within reasonable limits. I agree with the advise to helicoil the carb mounting threaded hole (in the manifold). The governor looseness is fixable with parts from hardware and bearing sources...seals, bushings and springs. I have a 63 year old Super A with its original starter motor. I took it to a battery/starter repair shop where new bearings and brushes were installed and cleaning of the commutator was performed...it now runs like new. The service tech told me that it's a better starter than any replacement that he had or could sell me. These starters are body grounded, electrically. Make sure that the mounting boss makes bare metal contact with the tractor's torque tube. Either clean the starter switch contacts too or replace the starter switch...new switches are readily available.
These old tractors require the user to watch for weaknesses and make regular repairs or improvements. I'm tinkering with mine fairly regularly BUT it's a strong machine when healthy and repairs are usually limited in cost and effort once you learn how they're intended to function and have experience with restoring their performance.
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