Substitute Drawbar (1A-60)

[CubitisNH]

Check your PM.
Mike

[Matt Kirsch]

I am having zero luck with this. If you're telling me I need to go through a dealer then thats a no-go. Unlike the west, we don't have tractor dealerships around every corner up here in New England. Does anyone have an high-resolutions photos of the drawbar? I know it hangs straight down from the front mount. I just need to know how far down it hangs.

For future reference, you don't have to work with a local dealer.

Messicks will work with you over the phone and have the part drop-shipped directly to you.

[havoc1482]

Okay so I have the drawbar, thank you again CubitisNH. Now I have a question. How to I actually mount the darn thing? I know you slip the tapered part over the final bolts, but what about the holes above it? Do I just put another bolt through that upper hole in the finals case because they do line up perfectly. Or does it swing? I can't imagine that it does.

[Worksmart]

Can't tell from the pic but are you working on the front side of the axle?

See page 6 in link

http://www.farmallcub.com/[ Sorry, direct links to manual section is not allowed. ]/files/Super%20A%20Manuals/1A-60%20Leveling%20and%20Grader%20Blade/1A-60%20Grader%20Blade.pdf

Chuck

[havoc1482]

Yes, I know about the manual. It doesn't say jack. It just tells me to mount the drawbar, not how. And yes, its the very front.

[Dale Finch]

I'm pretty sure that when I mounted mine, I slipped the beveled hole over the lower bolt as you did, then swung the upper hole to line up with the top final hole (as you suggested) and used a bolt & nut with lockwasher. Of course, I haven't mounted the blade yet...soon I hope. And you are right, the manual wasn't ANY help with that part!

[havoc1482]

Thanks Dale. I'm assuming that what you do. I can't find a bolt that seems to fit snug. Are those holes on the finals supposed to be threaded? or tapered? I can see threads and when I put a bolt in, it turns, but gets tighter and tighter until it won't budge. I can't get it to come through the otherside. Could be that so much crap has built up in there that its tight. I don't want to put anything that won't be snug because I know it will wear easily there with all that movement from the plow pushing and pulling on the bottom of the drawbar.

[Dale Finch]

Are those holes on the finals supposed to be threaded? or tapered? I can see threads and when I put a bolt in, it turns, but gets tighter and tighter until it won't budge.

Actually, I think it WAS just screwed into the threaded final hole with a lockwasher on the bolt. I'm sorry...spoke up too soon. I had looked through my photos, but don't seem to have one of the substitute drawbar after installation. It'll probably be a while before I get out to the farm to look...again, sorry.

Hey Super A! Don't you have one of these?...you're the "Expert"!

[Jim Becker]

The position to mount the substitute drawbar is shown in illustration 5 on page 6 of the above referenced manual. No, it doesn't tell what bolts to use (depends on A vs. Super A). I don't recall if the upper hole is threaded and/or blind. Clean out all the old dirt, cork or whatever is in it. You should be able to tell if it has threads. Run a 3/4 tap in to clean the threads. If a blind hole, a bottoming tap would be preferable. If you don't have a bottoming tap, use a regular tap, followed by a spray cleaner, followed by the tap again.

If it is a through hole with no threads, use a bolt with a nut in the upper hole.

[Denny Clayton]

The position to mount the substitute drawbar is shown in illustration 5 on page 6 of the above referenced manual. No, it doesn't tell what bolts to use (depends on A vs. Super A). I don't recall if the upper hole is threaded and/or blind. Clean out all the old dirt, cork or whatever is in it. You should be able to tell if it has threads. Run a 3/4 tap in to clean the threads. If a blind hole, a bottoming tap would be preferable. If you don't have a bottoming tap, use a regular tap, followed by a spray cleaner, followed by the tap again.

If it is a through hole with no threads, use a bolt with a nut in the upper hole.

I can't speak to the Super A, but the 140 uses a threaded through hole. If I had to make a guess, the SA is probably the same.

[havoc1482]

Yeah, Jim, the picture in the manual just happens to not show the exact area in question. That was my problem with it haha.

I looks as if there are threads in mine, you can see them looking at it from the wheel side. But the opposide side has a bigger diameter hole that shrinks as it goes through with no visible threads. The weird thing is that its this exact same way on both finals.

[Dale Finch]

The holes are possibly "wallered" out, and you may have to drill, tap, and insert a Helicoil.