Farmall Super A, AV, 1939 - 1954
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http://s841.photobucket.com/user/deane1935/media/plow.jpg.htmlIs this disc plow for a Super A and is it all there? Guy wants $100 for it....
It looks like a 152 belly disc plow (for a cub). I have not seen the A model. Make sure it is. It looks complete, and if in nice shape and bearing is good, if it was for a cub, it would bring, $250-$400 depending on disc size.
I measured the width of the arms and they are 27 inches, so with the Cub quick attach brackets it will work . I think there would have to be something fabricated for it to work on a Super A. The disc measures 22 inches. What sizes can you get for it. The parts manual only shows a 26 inch disc. TIA
26" was original, there are no aftermarket ones. A 22" will last a lifetime if just used for a garden, and will do a fine job.
For $100 it would already be at my house, cleaned up shiny, and listed on Craigs list for $300 (I have one already) but $100 is a great bargain.
Deane, what Dale's point was how much the disc has worn. That one has worn down 4 inches.
'60 FH Lo-Boy
'57 FH Cub "Rusty"
'56 FH Cub
(2) '48 Cubs
'75 IH 140 w/1000 loader
C-3 mower, FH Woods 42F, 22 sickle (2), 54A blade, L-54 blade, 194 plow, FH L-38 disk, FH LB disk, 144 cultivators, FH platform carrier
Yep Denny, it is worn 4" from 26" to 22". With this wear, there is also a loss of concavity.
My point was that, if not being used to farm with, just used doing gardens, it will work just fine. I have used ones that have passed through here that were down to 19" and would still plow a decent furrow.
As the disc wears, it becomes more important to move the right front axle out, so that 3 of the holes are showing.
Moving the axle changes the angle of attack the blade hits the ground.
Hope you got the plow, that's what I use for my garden. You can buy a 26" disc with the right concavity from AgriSupply, it's not in the catalog but call them and you can get it. It won't have the correct mounting holes so put your old disc on top of it to use as a pattern and cut holes with a torch then grind a bevel on the concave side of the holes so your plow bolts will be flush so as not to hit the scraper. Going from 22" to 26" makes a big difference in the work the plow will do. For the plow to work right the front wheel needs to be moved out and the rear wheel needs to be moved in. This doesn't effect the "angle of attack" but allows the rear wheel to ride in the newly cut furrow and the front wheel to ride in the previous furrow. I leave the wheels like this all the time even when I put on the cultivators and it works fine.
Gerry is correct.
You can get new discs. If you get them from a good local supplier, they'll punch the correct holes for you.
You can but the concave isn't correct and it will not roll the dirt as it should.
I bought a 26" disc from Agri Supply that is the same 3 7/8" concavity as the IH original. It's in their catalog now 80306, 67344, and 80316 depending on the center hole and thickness and the prices vary from $42-$53. I just looked online and for two of them it doesn't mention the concavity but the paper catalog call out 3 7/8". The center hole doesn't make any difference since you'll have to cut 4 holes in it to mount but I'd recommend the thicker gauge steel. Then on the concave side, you'll have to burr grind to taper the hole so your plow bolts will sit flush and not hit the scraper. It takes a little work but the difference going from 22" to 26" is amazing. Since the disc are hard, hard tool steel, you can't drill it and I doubt that it can be punched. Plowshare holes are put in the share when the steel is annealed, then hardened. You can do it two ways, cut them with a torch by using the old disc as a pattern or taking the disc to a place that does water jet cutting and give them a drawing for the hole locations. Or take your old disc with you and they can gin up a drawing quickly for you.
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