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wonder why the engine won't turn over?

Farmall Super A, AV, 100, 130, & 140 1939 - 1973
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artc
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Tractors Owned: Restored: 1950 Cub, 1950 Cub Demo, 1948 super AI, 1935 Silver King, 1946 Oliver 60 RC, John Deere M, 1950 C demo.

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Re: wonder why the engine won't turn over?

Postby artc » Mon Feb 18, 2013 1:45 pm

What was the condition when you opened the oil pan? was that rod still attached to the crank? i presume there was no water in it as the casting plug was out in the rear, is that right? is the sleeve cracked or scored? the answers to those questions would help tell what happened.
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Medic
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Re: wonder why the engine won't turn over?

Postby Medic » Mon Feb 18, 2013 8:26 pm

Further inspection today didn't reveal any scoring or cracks in the block, cylinder, or crank. Other then some surface scale from having water in the cylinders appear to be in good condition. I have not measured them yet but I did notice that there was no ridge worn in the top of the cylinder. i wonder if the they were new/refurbished when the rod bent.

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ricky racer
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Re: wonder why the engine won't turn over?

Postby ricky racer » Mon Feb 18, 2013 9:42 pm

Eugene wrote:
Medic wrote:How can I tell if the block is a loss?
Since engine is on engine stand, check very carefully for internal and external cracks, breaks, faults. No obvious problems, block will need to be boiled out, have the machine shop check the block again.

What Eugene said. Image
1929 Farmall Regular
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
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1952 John Deere B
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Boss Hog
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Re: wonder why the engine won't turn over?

Postby Boss Hog » Mon Feb 18, 2013 9:55 pm

artc wrote:What was the condition when you opened the oil pan? was that rod still attached to the crank? i presume there was no water in it as the casting plug was out in the rear, is that right? is the sleeve cracked or scored? the answers to those questions would help tell what happened.

I guess he did not read this post :shock:
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Medic
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Tractors Owned: 49 cub
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Re: wonder why the engine won't turn over?

Postby Medic » Tue Feb 19, 2013 12:04 pm

There was very little water left in the coolant system. The cylinder was not scored or cracked and the rod was still connected to the crank when I removed the pan. There was water in the oil pan but no metal pieces. I'll follow Eugene's advice and have the shop check everything over. Thanks for the advice fella's. its nice knowing you are here to help

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artc
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Tractors Owned: Restored: 1950 Cub, 1950 Cub Demo, 1948 super AI, 1935 Silver King, 1946 Oliver 60 RC, John Deere M, 1950 C demo.

In working clothes:
1950 cub, 1948 cub, 1941 A, 1948 H, 1963 B414, 1958 240U, 1947 Oliver 60 industrial, Oliver 70 industrial. IH 450, 1963, another 1948 cub, 1946 I6 with Trogan front blade.
Location: CT, Middletown
Contact:

Re: wonder why the engine won't turn over?

Postby artc » Wed Feb 20, 2013 6:30 pm

John mentioned something that appears to be on target. the tractor took a creek bath while running at speed. snorted a load of water into an otherwise healthy motor, and hydrolocked. the bent rod like that can only happen to a motor turning substantial RPM's. the water went to the oil pan, leaving no evidence. nothing else seems to fit what you found inside. now as to how the casting plug was ejected???? and when? i have no idea?

I love a mystery!

i'd be inclined to put it together if the sleeves were good, and the rings were in spec or close. a careful inspection and cleaning, of course, and re install the 2" casting plug in the rear with some sealant and a hammer.
'If they're tappin', they're not burnin'
http://www.ZagrayFarmMuseum.org

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artc
Cub Pro
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Posts: 1871
Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2003 10:25 am
Zip Code: 06457
eBay ID: cmtelephone
Tractors Owned: Restored: 1950 Cub, 1950 Cub Demo, 1948 super AI, 1935 Silver King, 1946 Oliver 60 RC, John Deere M, 1950 C demo.

In working clothes:
1950 cub, 1948 cub, 1941 A, 1948 H, 1963 B414, 1958 240U, 1947 Oliver 60 industrial, Oliver 70 industrial. IH 450, 1963, another 1948 cub, 1946 I6 with Trogan front blade.
Location: CT, Middletown
Contact:

Re: wonder why the engine won't turn over?

Postby artc » Wed Feb 20, 2013 6:37 pm

oh, of course you need a new rod and piston.

i think i'd have the crank checked for straightness as well.

I just looked at the pictures ofthe motor in the other thread. looks like a sleeve and piston kit, bearings, etc are in order.
'If they're tappin', they're not burnin'
http://www.ZagrayFarmMuseum.org


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