Farmall Super A, AV, 1939 - 1954
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What was the condition when you opened the oil pan? was that rod still attached to the crank? i presume there was no water in it as the casting plug was out in the rear, is that right? is the sleeve cracked or scored? the answers to those questions would help tell what happened.
Further inspection today didn't reveal any scoring or cracks in the block, cylinder, or crank. Other then some surface scale from having water in the cylinders appear to be in good condition. I have not measured them yet but I did notice that there was no ridge worn in the top of the cylinder. i wonder if the they were new/refurbished when the rod bent.
What Eugene said.
1929 Farmall Regular
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
I guess he did not read this post
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Power corrupts; absolute power corrupts absolutely byJohn Emerich Edward Dalberg
8th Va fest link viewtopic.php?f=8&t=81392&p=657790#p657790
There was very little water left in the coolant system. The cylinder was not scored or cracked and the rod was still connected to the crank when I removed the pan. There was water in the oil pan but no metal pieces. I'll follow Eugene's advice and have the shop check everything over. Thanks for the advice fella's. its nice knowing you are here to help
John mentioned something that appears to be on target. the tractor took a creek bath while running at speed. snorted a load of water into an otherwise healthy motor, and hydrolocked. the bent rod like that can only happen to a motor turning substantial RPM's. the water went to the oil pan, leaving no evidence. nothing else seems to fit what you found inside. now as to how the casting plug was ejected???? and when? i have no idea?
I love a mystery!
i'd be inclined to put it together if the sleeves were good, and the rings were in spec or close. a careful inspection and cleaning, of course, and re install the 2" casting plug in the rear with some sealant and a hammer.
oh, of course you need a new rod and piston.
i think i'd have the crank checked for straightness as well.
I just looked at the pictures ofthe motor in the other thread. looks like a sleeve and piston kit, bearings, etc are in order.
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