Bought a tractor rear end full of ice frooze solid need help

Farmall Super A, AV, 1939 - 1954

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Postby cjpenny89 » Mon Jan 22, 2007 10:17 am

here is a link to how the tractor sits.
http://www.wvpolekat.com/cjpenny/index.asp
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Postby Brandon Webb » Mon Jan 22, 2007 10:47 am

Is a rollback an option? Let them back up and winch it on. Then you can figure it out at your house with your tools in your heated shop. You could go buy heaters and all that, but if it's close to home a rollback shouldn't cost you $65-$80 bucks. You want to do minimial damage to that guys yard, I'd think dragging it out, you'd make them pretty mad at you. I wouldn't force it if it wouldn't roll. Get it home warm your shop up and thaw it correctly. If you force it, you might break something. Sounds like with just a little tinkering this tractor will be going again very easily. If you tear up the trans your looking at alot of work and money.

Dad always said, It's not a deal if you can't get it home. :D
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Postby beaconlight » Mon Jan 22, 2007 11:22 am

Old junk car hoods make good slids. I think you missed that in one of the other posts. The old Volks ones were the best. Used to take my kids sleigh ridding on them.

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Postby cjpenny89 » Mon Jan 22, 2007 11:43 am

Ok an old car hood is what I am going to look for. But if I get it to the trailer do you think it will slide up the ramps while on the car hood?
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Postby wvpolekat » Mon Jan 22, 2007 11:52 am

Depends on how strong you are and if your chainfall will do it. Its not going to be fun, thats for sure.
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Postby beaconlight » Mon Jan 22, 2007 12:06 pm

Why not? You can run a chain or cable from the axle housing from one side to the other to form a sling. pull on the sling so that you don't break the front end. You can run short chains or cables from the sling to the the front of the hood or hoods. You could make skids from 2x8 also. Cut 4 with a curved part in the front. Bolt them together in the front with a block between to make them wider. Taper out wide enough be wider than the tires. Score a piece of plywood (3/8 or 1/2 in) so it bends and screw to the bottom. You can hook to the center blocks and pull. You could just use a piece of plywood with holes on eack end , run tie down straps around the tires to lift the front so it doesn't dig in. Yank on the axles or draw bar not the front end. If you have a helper he can pull or push the skids to steer a bit if necessary.
You could take an old stone boat or two also or chainsaw out a skid from a big timber or tree. The possibilites are endless. Just use you imigianation.

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Postby wvpolekat » Mon Jan 22, 2007 12:17 pm

I heard the same warning about the front end when I picked my Super A up. Is the front end REALLY that fragile? On the cub I can understand because of the bolster being somewhat fragile and being cautious of that.

Seems to me that if pulling the tractor via it really poses a risk of it breaking or ripping off that the first good bump you hit is going to rip it right off of there or break it anyhow and the tractor itself is probably basically unsafe to even operate.

I could understand not jerking on the tractor by it, but I can't believe it is so fragile that this would damage it. Isn't this the same place bits you tie it down on a trailer via? Don't some cub implements mount to it?
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Postby cjpenny89 » Mon Jan 22, 2007 12:17 pm

I am more worried about getting it on the trailer once I get it there. Once I start to move it with the dodge hemi 4x4 I should be ok but once I get to the trailer I have to hook the truck up to the trialer and use a 1-1/2 ton chain hoist to pull it up. I am affaid it wont go up the incline of the trailer. I would take and jake the front of the trailer up to lower the rear.
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Postby beaconlight » Mon Jan 22, 2007 12:28 pm

Polecat I would tie down using implement mounts. Yess you can probably get away with tying down your way but you don't have my luck. Tthere are days that if not for bad luck I would not have any.
You would be suprised how little force is necassary to move something lubricated good with snow. Block the trailer wheels use a pully or any other guide and pull with the truck if necessary. You can drive old car axles as dead men with chain or cable to hold the trailer in place too.
An extra word of caution if using cable or rope, there can be a nasty suprise if the line parts (breaks). My uncle Gene had both legs broken when a tug tow line parted years ago.

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Postby cjpenny89 » Mon Jan 22, 2007 12:46 pm

yes we would be using chain or possibly a tow strap both very dangerous but if you can keep constant pressure that is better then jerking.
once I get the tractor to the ramps It will be steel on steel.
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Postby Matt Kirsch » Mon Jan 22, 2007 12:52 pm

If you can get your skis started up the ramps, it should slide. With wood ramps, just lube them up with a little snow and it'll go up slick as snot :)

If'n you can get a second vehicle, use a technique that I read about on here a while back:

Hook one truck to the trailer, and jackknife it so you've got a semi-clear shot over the front with a tow strap.

Use the second vehicle to pull the tractor/sled combo up on the trailer, over the front.

Oh yes, I would pull from the drawbar if at all possible.
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Postby ljw » Mon Jan 22, 2007 1:18 pm

Chad,
I bought a couple of Cubs that were both locked up. It took less than a pint of water to freeze them up. So it may not take that much heat to loosen them. I think you could drag it fairly easy if the tires were filled with air. I have pulled them on trailers before. It works, but it's slow work. If you had help, you could pull from the front and use leverage such as a long 4X4, etc. to push from the rear. Ideally, you need a couple of experienced Buckeyes up there to assist you. :roll: Is that politically correct? Work safely.
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Postby cjpenny89 » Mon Jan 22, 2007 1:32 pm

your welcome to come help anytime! I just want it home!
I was actualy thinking of pulling it on the trailer backwards. It has the snow plow on the front which might catch if I go front wards and pulling it up in revers might be better with the draw bar right there.
Chad
I may go down one day after work maybe try to do some work on it and maybe haul it home on sunday.
Saterday my hands are full unless the buckeyes are heading up.
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Postby FuryIII » Mon Jan 22, 2007 2:18 pm

if you build a skid out of lumber there is an easy way to move it . all you need is several pieces of 2" sch 40 PVC pipe just slightly longer than the skid is wide. once you get the tractor on the skid you simply pick up one end and lay the pipe under it. then roll the skid a little forward and add another pipe. youll need 6-8 pieces and they should go under the skid about every 18". once you have them under the skid positioned right a kid could push the load. as it rolls forward and one piece of pipe comes out the back pick it up and move it the the front. just be sure your moveing the right direction. this method leaves a lot to be desired in the "steering" department. the ground being frozen is a plus because the pipe wont sink into the earth.

ive loaded 3500 pound cars on trailers like this. its slow but its safe and easy. my description is vague at best but if your mechanical at all you get the idea.
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Postby junkman1946 » Mon Jan 22, 2007 2:28 pm

Fastest way if its ice lock--- Do exactly what Cowboy said to do. That will heat up a D8 from 0 to 80 in about 2 hours.
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