Farmall Super A, AV, 1939 - 1954
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6 posts • Page 1 of 1
I took off the distributor cap and noted the position of terminal 1 - just counterclockwise from 12:00, around 10:45.
I popped off the rotor and then put it back on before I screwed something up. I figured I'd better ask what to do now, not having taken this part apart before... I have new points, a new rotor, and a new cap to install, but I've never installed points before, so can someone point me to the right book?
Allen, though not impossible, it is difficult to put into writing a description of changing points. Let me refer you to page 30 thru 32 of the cub operators manual for some pictures and narrative on changing points. It happens to be on a magneto rather than a distributor but the basics are the same. Inside the distributor, beneath the rotor you should find the points and condensor. On the shaft at the center of the distributor you should note 4 lobes. The engine should be rotated so that one of the lobes is directly under the rubbing block on the points which means that the points would be at max open. There should be a wire lead from the condensor and a lead running to the outside of the distributor housing through a stud. There should also be a screw holding the points in place and properly gapped. Loosen the nut holding the wires and remove them from the points but note carefully their positions. Loosen the screw and lift the points off the post they are on. Remove the screw holding the condensor in place and remove it. Replace the condensor, then replace the points, install the screw and for now you can leave it untightened. Replace the lead from the condensor and the other lead (which comes from the coil primary) onto the points and tighten the nut making sure not to pinch or ground out those leads. The rubbing block on the new points should still be on the top of the lobe on the shaft. The points should be set at .020" gap (distributor ignition) and tightened down with the screw. Please note that tightening the screw tends to move the points a bit and will change the gap so it may take several tries before you have the proper gap after the screw is tightened. Be sure to put a little dab of the grease included in the points kit on the rubbing block of the points. Re-install the rotor and cap.
This is a pretty basic set of instructions and it might be better if you have someone who has done this is there to guide you through this.
Come on over to my place, I have a cub in need of a tune-up and I will let you do it.
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
Well bigdog i know some people that couldn't do it if they had just watched
you do it. To put it on paper you didn't do bad.
Good luck Allen it's not that bad,One step at a time.
Take a little time to play,you don't grow old as fast that way.
Changing points and static timing is one of those jobs that take less time to do than to explain how. If you have an old neighbor who works on cars - he can explain how as you perform the work. Might cost you a beverage.
And put a couple drops of oil on the wick under the rotor (if there is one there).
It can't get much better than Bigdog explained it. The only thing that can make it easier is to remove the dist. and put it in you vice to do the work. To make it easier to remember, turn the engine until the rotor points to number 1 plug wire (on combustion or exhaust) mark the housing with white marker, remove it, put it in your vise, install the points and condenser and gap the points, slap it back in lining up the rotor with Number one wire, line up your white marks, and wala, finished. Of course if it your first time, as it was with mine, I was to intimidated to do it and left it on the tractor. Do it like Bigdog said and you will be ok.
6 posts • Page 1 of 1
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