“A” carb question

[Lt.Mike]

As posted under my mag rebuilder thread I got my ‘46 A going again with a rebuilt mag, wires and plugs. Runs really good just with a little choke though.
Wednesday I removed and cleaned the carb (Zenith /Bendex).
In the process of clearing all the passages I ran a small copper wire into the jet that is in the top half that appears to feed the air idle screw.
It ran deep into it but it stops and when spraying carb cleaner or air thru the jet it appears hopelessly clogged as there was no blow thru.
Wasn’t brave enough to unscrew the jet as a slight attempt suggested it would bust if I tried further so I left it.
Once back together I set the idle mixture screw at 2 full turns out. Fired it and it required a little choke to smooth out even when warm.
I tried adjusting the screw but it had no effect on anything which to me suggests that little jet is the issue. (?) I’m afraid of removing it for fear of opening a can of worms with it falling apart.
I do have another carb that’s off my other ‘46 A .
It’s apart as I started to rebuild it but found the float was bad and it’s since been on the shelf.
Maybe I’ll swap tops and see if it does the trick.

[Rick Spivey]

Since you have little to lose, you might try to determine the size of the orifice, and then use a torch tip cleaner just a bit smaller, if it exists. That is NOT something you should ever do to a carb jet, but in this case, it might help open it up enough that carb cleaner and telephone wire could finish it. This assumes you have a good view of the orifice, couldn't do this in a blind hole. Again, this is a desperation move, proceed carefully.

[Don McCombs]

You could also try soaking it in Berryman’s Chem Dip for a day or two.

[Lt.Mike]

You could also try soaking it in Berryman’s Chem Dip for a day or two.

Never heard of it, Berryman’s. I’ll look into it.
Just to confirm, this is the smaller version of the main jet directly under and pointed in the direction of the air idle screw.
Poking a thin copper wire thru it shouldn’t bottom out right ?
This little brass jet is soft and my bear paws will sure ruin it if I try to remove it.
Also if it’s clogged it would account for the problem it’s having right ?
Rick, desperation moves seldom go well for me.
That kinda falls back into the old saying ...
“If it jams, force it. If it breaks, it probably needed replacing anyway”.
Ya, no I’m going to go easy and safe on this one.

[Don McCombs]

Poking a thin copper wire thru it shouldn’t bottom out right ?

Maybe. Maybe not. It depends on how the passages are designed. It may seem like it’s hit a blockage, when it has actually gone into a passage and hit the other side.
Chem Dip may be available at your local Walmart. Otherwise check the auto parts stores. It comes in a gallon paint can, with a basket inside.

[Dale Finch]

This works quite well!
https://www.amazon.com/Berryman-Products-996-Chem-Dip-Carburetor/dp/B00DSMEL2A

[Lt.Mike]

Supposedly it’s available at autozone .
Looks like it can be reused again and again.
I’ll have to try it.

[inairam]

I use chem dip all of the time. It is great.

[Lt.Mike]

Thinking the thing is to do is clean it as good as you can with something else, carb spray or diesel to get the worst crud off before transferring to the can for an extended soak.

[Don McCombs]

I thought you already cleaned it once? Just put it in the can. The Chem Dip will take care of the rest. Sometimes it will even take paint off. I always split the carb before dipping. Helps get to the internals easier. Rinse with water after the soak. Then blow dry.

[Lt.Mike]

I thought you already cleaned it once? Just put it in the can. The Chem Dip will take care of the rest. Sometimes it will even take paint off. I always split the carb before dipping. Helps get to the internals easier. Rinse with water after the soak. Then blow dry.

Yes I did, just saying in a general sense.

[JoeB]

It is advisable to de-grease and remove as much gunk as possible before disassembling and before putting the chem-dip. The chem-dip will last longer and better results will be achieved. Pine-sol works well, or any kind of degreaser safe for the metal. I wouldn't advise using the regular simple green for aluminum or pot-metal carbs.