Farmall Cub

That will teach you to clean out the crud from the air cleaner cup. It was there for a reason....

You are right! But at least this isn't mine...belongs to a widow who needs the money and is trying to sell it. I'm hoping to get it running so she makes the most money possible. So far I have spent a tad over $130 (cleaning supplies, carb and mag gasket kits, etc) and about a week off/on pressure cleaning, scraping, etc. Hoping to accumulate some positive karma points....I need as many as I can get!!!

Dale Finch wrote:Do you recommend a particular epoxy? I go cross-eyed standing looking at all the different choices!

What ever type you have on hand will more than likely do.

I keep several different types of epoxy on hand. Stuff doesn't go bad.

I like the red kote idea, if you were close I'd run by n give ya what I have left after doing my SA n cub. I could use some good karma points as well I'd do the epoxy first n then do the red kote, then even if there are other weak spots that would have developed in future the red kote will keep them from rusting through. But I wouldn't buy it if your not looking at being the owner, only if you have some on hand or similar fuel tank repair kit. Else just do the epoxy and fix it for now... In a year or two well probably see on here the new owner asking how to fix PO fix LOL

Rattle can spray on bed liner. Make sure it's petroleum safe.

Ol Timey Farming LLC wrote:But I wouldn't buy it if your not looking at being the owner, only if you have some on hand or similar fuel tank repair kit. Else just do the epoxy and fix it for now... In a year or two well probably see on here the new owner asking how to fix PO fix LOL

Oooo...not the notorious PREVIOUS OWNER!!!!!!

Don McCombs wrote:Rattle can spray on bed liner. Make sure it's petroleum safe.

When I was at NAPA yesterday, I saw a can of spray-on bed liner and asked if it was fuel resistant. They said no, that fuel would soften it and turn to goo.

Can't see spending much more if I don't have to...this all may be out of pocket for me! So, I will simply JB Weld it, and move on to rebuilding the carb and mag! Anyone want to come play??!!!

I would solder it.

Rob in NH wrote:I would solder it.

I would too IF I had a real cutting torch, I've seen muffler shops use them and coat hangers and weld up even thin rusted pipe. I just don't have that set up as the bottles now cost an arm n a leg to even lease besides own.

You don't need OA torches to solder.

Really??? I always saw them use O-A torch so I thought a propane torch wasn't hot enough to melt cloth hangers...

Soldering just needs a soldering iron or propane flame. You're using a low temperature melting solder, not a steel coat hanger. Similar to a plumber sweat soldering a copper pipe joint.

For epoxy, you should have a few choices at a place like ace hardware. Look for a 5 minute or greater working time epoxy. It takes a bit of stirring to get it mixed. Mix it in a cup and apply heat with a heat gun as you are pouring. Once poured, remove heat and let it cure.