Oil Reccomendations

[TraumaOne]

So, I'm finishing up my maintenance before the snow flies. What Oil are you Northern folks running in your engines? I've looked around and found quite a few different answers. What do you recommend?

Thanks in advance,

[Eugene]

I would probably use 10W30 if the tractor is stored in a cold shed.

If I used an engine oil pan or coolant heater, then a bit higher oil weight.

Answer depends on how cold it gets in your area, frequency of tractor usage, how tractor is stored, weight of oil on hand, etc..

[ricky racer]

I would probably use 10W30 if the tractor is stored in a cold shed.

[TraumaOne]

The tractor is being stored in my garage, which is insulated but not heated. It definitely gets cold in there, but rarely stays under freezing for any length of time. The tractor will for the most part only be used to plow snow.

[Donegal Cub]

The tractor is being stored in my garage, which is insulated but not heated. It definitely gets cold in there, but rarely stays under freezing for any length of time. The tractor will for the most part only be used to plow snow.

10 - 30 should fine to use. Do not use semi-synthetic or synthetic oil. These engines were not designed for it.

[TraumaOne]

Got it, thank you for the recommendation. That'll be part of this weekends project, probably replace the coolant as well.

[BullDAWG]

10 - 30 should fine to use. Do not use semi-synthetic or synthetic oil. These engines were not designed for it.

Not trying to start the whole oil debate thing this usually turns into, but I disagree on the synthetic part. These engines were designed for 30w non-detergent oil in the 40's but times and oil has changed. Synthetic just like conventional oils have detergents and if tractor had ONLY non-detergent oil in them then either would be bad without flushing the crud left from non-detergent oil before using the new types. But the only difference between new conventional oils and synthetic is that the new synthetics have more protection of thermal breakdown so in my book they are far better and last longer than conventional oils. I have heard running synthetic will cause oil burn (puffs smoke out exhaust) but in my tractors I've never seen this and have seen testing showing that the synthetics protect the metal better, can last longer, have higher temp range before breaking down, superior soot control, maximum sludge & varnish control as well and other benefits including less wear on parts. Also synthetics don't cause rubber to break down so the old saying of it will harm seals is incorrect and some even have restoring additives to help old seals (can get this in conventional oils too). So at least for me till I see evidence from SAE or the Tractor manufactures (some say synthetics are better and cover a larger cold to hot range than conventional), I'll continue using it.

[Donegal Cub]

10 - 30 should fine to use. Do not use semi-synthetic or synthetic oil. These engines were not designed for it.

Not trying to start the whole oil debate thing this usually turns into, but I disagree on the synthetic part. These engines were designed for 30w non-detergent oil in the 40's but times and oil has changed. Synthetic just like conventional oils have detergents and if tractor had ONLY non-detergent oil in them then either would be bad without flushing the crud left from non-detergent oil before using the new types. But the only difference between new conventional oils and synthetic is that the new synthetics have more protection of thermal breakdown so in my book they are far better and last longer than conventional oils. I have heard running synthetic will cause oil burn (puffs smoke out exhaust) but in my tractors I've never seen this and have seen testing showing that the synthetics protect the metal better, can last longer, have higher temp range before breaking down, superior soot control, maximum sludge & varnish control as well and other benefits including less wear on parts. Also synthetics don't cause rubber to break down so the old saying of it will harm seals is incorrect and some even have restoring additives to help old seals (can get this in conventional oils too). So at least for me till I see evidence from SAE or the Tractor manufactures (some say synthetics are better and cover a larger cold to hot range than conventional), I'll continue using it.

I guess Im an old timer that sticks to what he knows. However, I bow to your better qualified superior scientific knowledge of oils.

[BullDAWG]

Like I said I'm NOT trying to start a debate, Some like using non-detergent oil, some conventional and others synthetic, if I didn't use synthetic in my other vehicles I wouldn't buy it just for my 70 year old tractors. But since I have some left over from other engine oil changes its cheaper for me to just have 1 type that works well in all my equipment and rides, I buy it (synthetic) by the gallon and have a few quarts to spare after any oil changes). But if you want then please don't think I am a conventional oil hater, the only oil I'd ever bash is Quaker State, and thats just because when I owned an automotive machine shop I hated cleaning those engines as the sludge was so bad that you couldn't even see the rocker arms after pulling the valve covers off (even though they claimed to have detergents in their oil)... Besides that I'd only recommend using the right weight for the temp you live/work in and then use what you like best or have on hand.

[Redneckfire]

Im from New York and my tractor is stored in the garage and sometimes outside in the snow. I use the tractor all year. Get wood in the summer and plow my driveway in the winter and make paths to my garage, barn and house. Should I use 10w-30 or no because it will heat up past 32. When i start it it's between -5 to 25 degrees out. My garage has 25% insulation on it. Other than that it's just a tin garage

[Denny Clayton]

Im from New York and my tractor is stored in the garage and sometimes outside in the snow. I use the tractor all year. Get wood in the summer and plow my driveway in the winter and make paths to my garage, barn and house. Should I use 10w-30 or no because it will heat up past 32. When i start it it's between -5 to 25 degrees out. My garage has 25% insulation on it. Other than that it's just a tin garage

10w-30 is good for year round.