Farmall A / B C-113 Cranks

[Duckman328]

Anyone have any insight on the 2 different style cranks for the C-113, one has a keyway for the crank gear and crank pulley while some had only the crank gear keyway and the pulley was setscrewed on to the crank. Rebuilding a C-113 now and the crank I took out had a keyway for the gear and the pulley. Got another crank and it has a keyway for the crank gear but not for the pulley. There is a indention in the crank where the crank pulley was used with a set screw. Just curious as I see crank pulley's for sale some with a set screw and some without! Trying to learn a little here. Thanks

[Jim Becker]

The early production (about 3/4 of them) had a setscrew, later ones not. However, to my knowledge all of them had a woodruff key. The early style may have shared a single (longer) key for both the gear and pulley. I believe the two keyways (when there were 2) were aligned to the same orientation on the shaft. Check the length of the existing key (1-1/8 vs. 3/4) and be sure there isn't half of a sheared off key in the crankshaft.

You need to use an early pulley on an early crankshaft and a late on a late. Don't mix them up.

[Duckman328]

The crank that is junk does have 2 keyways and they are in line as you stated. The other crank I got only has one keyway and it is long as you stated (back towards the crank gear side). I seen another post about someone taking a pulley that didn't have a setscrew and they drilled / tapped it so it would work on the style of crank that didn't have the keyway for it. I wonder if this is acceptable or as you said, don't use a pulley of one with the crank of the other? They sure do look the same to me but I guess there could be thousands of an inch difference in the diameters of the cranks and ID's of the pulleys so that the press on style pulley versus the setscrew style could create issues.

[Jim Becker]

I have heard of guys adding a setscrew to the later style pulley. I have not tried it or seen the results firsthand, so can't say if it is a viable fix or not. Closely measuring both your old and replacement cranks may give you some insight to whether it will work OK.

[Duckman328]

Well I got everything back from the machine shop and here is my consensus: The new crank is a 46402DA model number which only has one keyway/woodruff key that is 1 1/8" long. The old crank had 2 keyways (in line) and were around 3/4" long each (one for the crank gear and one for the crank pulley). So sitting there with the machinist, I had taken along my crank pulley just to make sure it was going to work. Well it slides on the crankshaft without any effort, all the way to the crankshaft hear and can be slid off in the same manner. There is no interference fit whatsoever (as when I took the pulley off the old crankshaft I had to make a puller and it was tough getting off!!!). So doing some more reading do I need to come up with a 6502DA crankshaft pulley (they appear to have a set screw in them and I am assuming they may have a smaller diameter inside for the smaller crankshaft of the 46402DA).