1970 IH 140 Restoration

Farmall Super A, AV, 100, 130, & 140 1939 - 1973

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w30bob
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Re: 1970 IH 140 Restoration

Postby w30bob » Fri Dec 14, 2018 12:28 pm

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the pics Shane....yup, just like mine. Don't take my comments the wrong way, I'm not putting down the Brillman harness in any way.....I'm just pointing out the differences between it and the Porch harness so folks can decide for themselves if the Porch is worth the substantial extra bucks it costs as compared to the Brillman. I absolutely agree with you guys in that for a working tractor or non-100 point restoration the differences I'm pointing out like the braiding material and rear light harness sheathing don't make a bit of difference in how the tractor will function. When I threw my harness on and turned the key....she fired right up and all the lights and ammeter worked fine.

Shane, one thing to watch out for when you replace your main harness is when you take the old one off you'll find the harness makes a hard 90 degree turn at the front left corner of the engine block (behind the generator), and right at that corner the harness branches out to go left to that headlight and right, across the front of the tractor to the other headlight and to the coil. My replacement harness wasn't exactly long enough to make that 90 degree turn at the exact spot the harness branches out. So the new harness makes the 90 degree turn after it branches out and you have to physically bend the harness to make that turn, whereas the original harness made the turn naturally because it had wires branching out right at that point. So the sharp corner of the block rubs on the harness and might wear thru it at some point after I'm dead and buried. You can adjust the new harness to branch out exactly at the corner of the block like the original harness did, but you'll find then that the gray wire going behind the dash is just a bit too short to reach its connection.

The other things to note when you install your harness, assuming it's just like mine, is that the two clamps that hold the harness to the engine that are in front of the block under the water pump are bit hard to get to and the clamp that hangs down from the bottom generator bolt has to be bent backwards to keep the harness from hitting the generator belt. It'll all make perfect sense to you when you have it apart. I pulled my radiator and fan because I replaced all the hoses and hose clamps as well as flushed and cleaned the radiator. That made installing the new harness much easier because getting to those two front clamps was a breeze. I ended up blasting all my clamps, re-dipping them in liquid rubber, and then painting them IH red before I installed the new harness.

Lastly, the new harness has more braiding on it than the stock harness. Meaning the braiding goes further down the harness and covers more of the headlight wires and distributor wire than the original braiding does. What that means is the two little clamps that secure the headlight wires to the horizontal rods the headlights mount to are no longer big enough to go around the new harness because of the extra braiding. On the original harness the clamps only had to hold the two bare headlight wires to the rods.....now they have to hold those two wires wrapped in braiding and you can't squeeze the clamps tight enough to close them to get the bolt thru. Not a biggie, just make slightly bigger clamps.

The only other issue as the wrong headlight connectors, which I talked about already. Just re-use the old ones if you want a weathertight connection.........or pack the new "L" shaped Packard connectors on the new harness with conductive grease. Again, not a biggie.

When you install your new harness could you do me one favor? Take a pic of the rear of your keyed ignition switch. I'm trying to determine if mine is the original one or not, but can't find a pic of the part number switch listed in the parts book. You'll find the new harness has ring terminals for the connections to the keyed switch, but the current replacement switch listed in the parts catalog has spade terminals. So I'd love to see what the original switch looks like for sure so when I find one I can pick it up.

thanks,
bob

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AL Farmall Boy
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Re: 1970 IH 140 Restoration

Postby AL Farmall Boy » Fri Dec 14, 2018 2:43 pm

Very good info Bob. Thank you for sharing that for us that will be getting a new harness in the future. That is also a great idea to blast, dip, and paint those clips. I've never used liquid rubber dip but it sounds easy. I imagine it would put that "finishing touch" on a restoration.
Regards,
Chase
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w30bob
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Posts: 339
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Zip Code: 20634
Tractors Owned: 1959 Farmall Cub
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1975 John Deere 301
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1952 Dodge M37 Weapons Carrier
1955 Willys M38A1
Location: Great Mills, MD

Re: 1970 IH 140 Restoration

Postby w30bob » Fri Dec 14, 2018 6:09 pm

Hi Chase,

The rubber dip works good, but it takes 2 or 3 dips to get the rubber as thick as original. But it dries fast, so you can be done in short order. You can even get the rubber dip in RED, so if you want to paint the clips first and then dip they still look original. I found the rubber on my original clips was shot and peeling off....and new ones from Case/IH are expensive.

regards,
bob

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Re: 1970 IH 140 Restoration

Postby AL Farmall Boy » Tue Dec 18, 2018 9:05 am

w30bob wrote:Hi Chase,

The rubber dip works good, but it takes 2 or 3 dips to get the rubber as thick as original. But it dries fast, so you can be done in short order. You can even get the rubber dip in RED, so if you want to paint the clips first and then dip they still look original. I found the rubber on my original clips was shot and peeling off....and new ones from Case/IH are expensive.

regards,
bob


Where did you buy it? I want to make sure to get the right stuff.
Regards,
Chase
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w30bob
Cub Star!!
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Posts: 339
Joined: Fri Dec 08, 2017 4:58 pm
Zip Code: 20634
Tractors Owned: 1959 Farmall Cub
1939 Farmall A
1975 John Deere 301
2015 Kubota BX25DLR
1952 Dodge M37 Weapons Carrier
1955 Willys M38A1
Location: Great Mills, MD

Re: 1970 IH 140 Restoration

Postby w30bob » Tue Dec 18, 2018 8:30 pm

Hi Chase,

I got mine at my local True Value hardware store, but any hardware store will have it. It's called Plasti-Dip and comes in a 14.5 oz can. It's used for putting rubber handles on pliers, etc. I think it cost around $6. It also has a reuseable plastic lid, but once opened I'd say you only have a month or two before it gets thick. I bought red, but it comes in yellow, black and blue as well. If you need a pic of the can just shout.

Regards,
Bob

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Shane N.
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Re: 1970 IH 140 Restoration

Postby Shane N. » Wed Aug 28, 2019 1:17 pm

Norman is in for some major surgery.
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Re: 1970 IH 140 Restoration

Postby Dale Finch » Wed Aug 28, 2019 2:09 pm

Best wishes for a speedy recovery!!! :lol:

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Re: 1970 IH 140 Restoration

Postby AL Farmall Boy » Wed Aug 28, 2019 2:23 pm

Shane N. wrote:Norman is in for some major surgery.


Oh boy, I'm excited what you're up to! Does this mean I should be looking for a new topic thread on this???
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Shane N.
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1970 International 140 (Norman)
1972 International 140 (Keeferdoodle)
1949 John Deere A
1993 Ford 4630 W/Loader
1965 John Deere 110
1961 Cub Cadet Original

Sold Cubs..
1947 Cub #1447 (Arnold)
1949 Cub (Walt)
1950 Cub (piece of junk)
1952 Cub
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: N.C.

Re: 1970 IH 140 Restoration

Postby Shane N. » Wed Aug 28, 2019 5:56 pm

Dale Finch wrote:Best wishes for a speedy recovery!!! :lol:

Don’t think this one will be speedy, may be a long drawn out winter project. Needs a clutch, all seals, wiring, valves adjusted, steering rebuild, etc. now that the other one is fixed right I’m in no hurry on this one.
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Shane N.
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1975 International Cub
1970 International 140 (Norman)
1972 International 140 (Keeferdoodle)
1949 John Deere A
1993 Ford 4630 W/Loader
1965 John Deere 110
1961 Cub Cadet Original

Sold Cubs..
1947 Cub #1447 (Arnold)
1949 Cub (Walt)
1950 Cub (piece of junk)
1952 Cub
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: N.C.

Re: 1970 IH 140 Restoration

Postby Shane N. » Wed Aug 28, 2019 5:57 pm

AL Farmall Boy wrote:
Shane N. wrote:Norman is in for some major surgery.


Oh boy, I'm excited what you're up to! Does this mean I should be looking for a new topic thread on this???

Guess I’ll just update it here, not gonna do a paint restore just a no leak make it feel new deal.
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Re: 1970 IH 140 Restoration

Postby AL Farmall Boy » Thu Aug 29, 2019 10:34 am

Sounds good. I am actually going to be starting a clutch R&R on a 1975 140 starting this evening, and hopefully have it out tomorrow by lunch. Going to try and have the components in the tractor rebuilt rather than aftermarket stuff used. Tried adjusting the clutch and it got better but it shakes really bad when letting out so I am betting the disk is hard and pressure plate might be weak. I've got to make it right.
Regards,
Chase
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Shane N.
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Posts: 4259
Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2017 6:24 am
Zip Code: 00000
Tractors Owned: .
1975 International Cub
1970 International 140 (Norman)
1972 International 140 (Keeferdoodle)
1949 John Deere A
1993 Ford 4630 W/Loader
1965 John Deere 110
1961 Cub Cadet Original

Sold Cubs..
1947 Cub #1447 (Arnold)
1949 Cub (Walt)
1950 Cub (piece of junk)
1952 Cub
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: N.C.

Re: 1970 IH 140 Restoration

Postby Shane N. » Thu Aug 29, 2019 10:40 am

AL Farmall Boy wrote:Sounds good. I am actually going to be starting a clutch R&R on a 1975 140 starting this evening, and hopefully have it out tomorrow by lunch. Going to try and have the components in the tractor rebuilt rather than aftermarket stuff used. Tried adjusting the clutch and it got better but it shakes really bad when letting out so I am betting the disk is hard and pressure plate might be weak. I've got to make it right.

The other 140 I just put a clutch in shook so bad it was dangerous, it didn't matter if it was idling or higher RPM. When I took it out it looked great, the disc had plenty of life and nothing looked worn. The only thing I can figure is some of the pressure plate springs were weaker than others causing it to grab one sided, if that makes sense. My dads 140 is the same way.

The clutch in this one is just slap worn out, the man told me it's been that way for years. I'm curios to see how bad when I get in there.
Every home is a school, what are you teaching?

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User avatar
Shane N.
501 Club
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Posts: 4259
Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2017 6:24 am
Zip Code: 00000
Tractors Owned: .
1975 International Cub
1970 International 140 (Norman)
1972 International 140 (Keeferdoodle)
1949 John Deere A
1993 Ford 4630 W/Loader
1965 John Deere 110
1961 Cub Cadet Original

Sold Cubs..
1947 Cub #1447 (Arnold)
1949 Cub (Walt)
1950 Cub (piece of junk)
1952 Cub
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: N.C.

Re: 1970 IH 140 Restoration

Postby Shane N. » Fri Aug 30, 2019 8:31 am

Got the valves adjusted, they were actually to tight. Was glad it’s so clean inside, Norman obviously didn’t use Quaker State oil :lol:
49749A0E-21D8-4BA4-AA78-5A90207C4DC5.jpeg
EF4BB06C-733E-4B4B-9AA3-748E514F921E.jpeg


Here’s the part number for a valve cover gasket from the local auto parts store if anybody needs one for a C123 engine, and a few others apparently.
FBE3570B-9B85-4595-978B-ADF03496945F.jpeg
Every home is a school, what are you teaching?

Circle of Safety

User avatar
Shane N.
501 Club
501 Club
Posts: 4259
Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2017 6:24 am
Zip Code: 00000
Tractors Owned: .
1975 International Cub
1970 International 140 (Norman)
1972 International 140 (Keeferdoodle)
1949 John Deere A
1993 Ford 4630 W/Loader
1965 John Deere 110
1961 Cub Cadet Original

Sold Cubs..
1947 Cub #1447 (Arnold)
1949 Cub (Walt)
1950 Cub (piece of junk)
1952 Cub
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: N.C.

Re: 1970 IH 140 Restoration

Postby Shane N. » Fri Aug 30, 2019 12:52 pm

Got started on the rear wiring harness. Assuming this is as close to an original rear lamp as I could find, it says "4428 back up". It has the small build behind to give it the red color when the brights are off. Got to get a small bulb and a new flasher. Unfortunately this original painted flasher doesn’t work.
Attachments
752AF591-7867-4CF1-BE8A-CCCBC956904A.jpeg
816F1F04-E939-44D1-84B0-0F4C241A5FA7.jpeg
BCCCFCFE-17F6-4F63-BB4F-6F11DF55837F.jpeg
D5598230-BA0E-4B90-8CA8-824D4C6706F5.jpeg
2B8FA40C-BFE5-49FE-8ED9-A2AD34AB9F69.jpeg
Every home is a school, what are you teaching?

Circle of Safety

User avatar
Shane N.
501 Club
501 Club
Posts: 4259
Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2017 6:24 am
Zip Code: 00000
Tractors Owned: .
1975 International Cub
1970 International 140 (Norman)
1972 International 140 (Keeferdoodle)
1949 John Deere A
1993 Ford 4630 W/Loader
1965 John Deere 110
1961 Cub Cadet Original

Sold Cubs..
1947 Cub #1447 (Arnold)
1949 Cub (Walt)
1950 Cub (piece of junk)
1952 Cub
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: N.C.

Re: 1970 IH 140 Restoration

Postby Shane N. » Tue Sep 10, 2019 1:18 pm

Was gonna start with putting the clutch in but decided to pull the radiator and such to fix a couple leaks and the water pump is shot.
Attachments
38690B60-0024-451A-B3A7-E8A1BEFA83C0.jpeg
11449668-6DA7-4818-B892-D3A51FA86B07.jpeg
Every home is a school, what are you teaching?

Circle of Safety


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