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Wheel Bolts
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- 5+ Years
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Wheel Bolts
It has been a while since I have posted here - I have been happily putting my 140 to work plowing, discing, and hauling! But now I ask for your help again. It seems that the bolts that attach the left rear wheel rim to wheel center have loosened and worn. I removed one, and the threads, though not stripped, are quite worn. My challenge now is finding replacements. The bolts are square head, 5/8 diameter, and approx 2 7/8 inch in overall length. The heads are 15/16 inch square. They are fine-threaded, but I do not know the tpi. There are four per rim. My standby supplier Steiner does not have them. Do any of you know where I could find these bolts and nuts? Thanks!
PS. I did search the forum!
PS. I did search the forum!
- Don McCombs
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Re: Wheel Bolts
Try Fastenal or McMaster-Carr.
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- 5+ Years
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Re: Wheel Bolts
Thanks, Don! M-C has them. Whooda thunk? As usual, an answer leads to more questions:
1. Grade 5 or 8?
2. The bolts at M-C are coarse 11 tpi. The one I removed is fine. Any issue there?
Thanks!
1. Grade 5 or 8?
2. The bolts at M-C are coarse 11 tpi. The one I removed is fine. Any issue there?
Thanks!
- Don McCombs
- Team Cub Mentor
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1957 Farmall Cub w/FH
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MD, Deep Creek Lake
Re: Wheel Bolts
I would say grade 5 would be adequate. I’m sure that’s what the originals are. This may seem a little odd, but if you have a John Deere dealer nearby, take your bolt sizes and see if they have them.
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Re: Wheel Bolts
The grading system for bolts I think came out in the early 60s. I have read here the people suspected the early dot and IH bolts were not quite a grade 5 so I agree with Don that a grade 5 is probably fine.
Personally, I would consider this a critical bolt and you do not need a lot of them, I would get a grade 8.
Personally, I would consider this a critical bolt and you do not need a lot of them, I would get a grade 8.
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!
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Re: Wheel Bolts
I'd rather replace a bolt than a rim if things get to moving again. Any wear should occur on the replaceable item.
184 w/ Creeper & 3-Point
IH 3160a Mower
IH Model 15 Tiller
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IH 3160a Mower
IH Model 15 Tiller
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Re: Wheel Bolts
Check with your nearest tractor dealership, any make.Don McCombs wrote:If you have a John Deere dealer nearby, take your bolt sizes and see if they have them.
Ask the owner of your local hardware store. In rural areas, they have usually have items that are not in their display cases/bins.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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Re: Wheel Bolts
Don McCombs wrote:I would say grade 5 would be adequate. I’m sure that’s what the originals are. This may seem a little odd, but if you have a John Deere dealer nearby, take your bolt sizes and see if they have them.
Yep, the last ones I needed came from JD.
As to grade, it's not rocket surgery. You're not putting 150 HP through them, I'd be more worried about having the correct head (square not hex!) than the bolt grade. Just check the tightness a few times after installing them and then forget about it.
Al
White Demo Super A Restoration Updates
Let us pray for farmers and all who prepare the soil for planting, that the seeds they sow may lead to a bountiful harvest.
Celebrating 75 years of the Super A: 1947-2022
Let us pray for farmers and all who prepare the soil for planting, that the seeds they sow may lead to a bountiful harvest.
Celebrating 75 years of the Super A: 1947-2022
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- 5+ Years
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Re: Wheel Bolts
Grade 5 it is! Thanks everyone!
- Bill Hudson
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Re: Wheel Bolts
If those bolts are the same size as for a Cub: Rear wheel bolts-square head John Deere Part #08h4465
Bill
Bill
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Re: Wheel Bolts
Bill, it seems that the Cub bolts are half inch versus five eights inch For the 140. Thanks just the same. I ordered them from McMaster Carr and they will be here tomorrow!
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- 5+ Years
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Re: Wheel Bolts
Update: so the bolts came next day from McMaster Carr. Swapping out the first three was easy but the fourth one has me stuck. The recess in the rim for the square head of the bolt is rounded out. And it is so buggered that I can’t even get the bolt out. It looks like I’m going to have to remove the entire wheel. What a pain. I think I will just replace the Rim. It needs a new tire anyways. Another winter project…
- Urbish
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Re: Wheel Bolts
You can remove the head of the bolt by drilling through it. Start small, directly in the center. Work your way up to 5/8". You don't have to drill all the way through the bolt, just the head. Once you're close you might be able to knock the head off with a punch.
Jim
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Re: Wheel Bolts
Thanks for that idea, Urbish. I will see if i can do that. I might be difficult - the heads of the bolts are on the inside
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