This is what I did for my link. If you look at the last picture I did not use the bell crank extension even though I have it.
I was never happy with height of my snow blade. I didn't know the difference at first and got a L-54 blade. I got most of the parts from TM Tom to make it a std 54A. Great quality parts but I just could not afford all of them so I had to reuse some of the old parts. I must have cut the bar fifteen times lengthening and shorting it. Today I went out and got some 3/4threaded and built a adjustable link.
The bar at the top is the one I was using for my top link
I found a heavy wall square steel tube That a 3/4 threaded rod fit into.
Bent a piece of flat stock into a U drilled a bolt hole in it and welded it to the pipe.
I ran two 3/4 nuts onto the rod and welded one to the pipe.
And cut one end off the old link and welded it to the threaded rod.
Now I can loosen the lock nut pull the top off the rock shaft screw
it in or out to set the blade where I want it.
This is it on the tractor. This is it on the Cub. It will work with the boomerang bar but I hooked it up like this so I would have more travel
so it would lift the blade higher.
I haven't even adjusted it yet and the blade lifts 7 inches. And I still have plenty of down pressure.
Billy
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Replacement Lift Rod For The Leveling and Grader Blade
- cowboy
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 3414
- Joined: Sat May 15, 2004 11:10 am
- Zip Code: 49229
- Location: MI, Britton
Replacement Lift Rod For The Leveling and Grader Blade
Take care of your equipment and it will take care of you. 1964 cub. Farmall 100 and 130.
"Those that say it can’t be done should not interrupt the ones who are doing it.”
"Those that say it can’t be done should not interrupt the ones who are doing it.”
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