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How To Set Points

Sun Jul 16, 2006 11:27 am

First set engine to top dead center. It makes it easier if something gets moved or bumped while working on it.

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Second take off the the cap and mark the rotor position on the body of the distributor.


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I left the coil on and just pulled the distributor. You can change the points and set them without pulling it off but its much harder. I was not able to change the condenser without pulling the distributor off the engine.

Third Mark the shaft in the bottom of the distributor. Be carefull it may pull out of the distributor housing. If it does line it up where you think it goes slide it back in the engine and check to see if the rotor is in the position marked earlier. If not try again and mark when correct.


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Four Now you have the distributor sitting on a clean table. Take off the rotor. Remove the cover for the points.


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Added by Eugene

Under the rotor is supposed to be a felt. This felt is to be lubricated. It is located in the center of the distributor cam. It's the hole in the end of the shaft that the rotor sets into

So couple of areas to check, lubricate. Take the distributor and set upright. Put 8 or 10 drops of light weight oil on the felt and let soak for a while. Then holding the rotor, turn the distributor drive gear to open and close the advance mechanism. Continue adding a drop of oil and working the advance mechanism back and forth until it frees up.

Put a drop of oil on the weight pivots and at each spring anchor.


Grab the distributor shaft try to move it side to side. If it moves more than a few thousands the shaft or bushing is worn out. And may cause the to skip or miss.

With the rotor on and holding the bottom of the shaft from turning. Turn the rotor back and fourth. It should move freely a 1/2 inch or so. This is the spark advance. If it does not move your timing will not be right.

Five Use the distributor point lube and lube the point rubbing block. Slide the end of the point spring into the retaining nut. Then gently work the points onto the pivot pin.


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Six Put the condenser back in hook the wire back over the retaining nut for the points and tighten.

Seven Set the points on the high spot of the distributor cam lobe (open position) adjust the point gap to .020 by putting a feeler gauge between the point top and bottom striker plate. Adjust by by moving the striker plate in and out. Tighten striker plate and recheck gap as it tends to move when tightening. Check point gap on all four lobes of the distributor. That will tell you if their further problems.

Added by Bigdog

With the rub block on the points arm sitting on top of the lobe, the points are opened at max. With the points in this position, the striker plate (which is held in place by a screw) is adjusted so that the point gap is .020". This can be a tedious adjustment because as you tighten the plate back down, it tends to move slightly. I use a .020" feeler blade and set the points so there is just a very very light drag of the blade. Always re-check the gap after tightening the plate down. If you set the gap on one lobe, it should be the same on all four lobes but it might be off a little if there is wear on the shaft or lobes. By checking all 4 lobes you can set the gap for optimum if there are differences in the readings.

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Go ahead put the distributor back in and check the timing. As it may have moved some.

Good luck Billy :wink:
Last edited by cowboy on Mon Mar 23, 2009 3:30 pm, edited 5 times in total.

Sun Jul 16, 2006 12:08 pm

Really nice.

If I may add. There is a felt piece located in the center of the distributor cam. It's the hole in the end of the shaft that the rotor sets into. Add 2 or 3 drops of light machine oil.

Remove the grease plug and grease the bearing.

Well Done.

Eugene

Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:17 pm

Bob - with the rub block on the points arm sitting on top of the lobe, the points are opened at max. With the points in this position, the striker plate (which is held in place by a screw) is adjusted so that the point gap is .020". This can be a tedious adjustment because as you tighten the plate back down, it tends to move slightly. I use a .020" feeler blade and set the points so there is just a very very light drag of the blade. Always re-check the gap after tightening the plate down. If you set the gap on one lobe, it should be the same on all four lobes but it might be off a little if there is wear on the shaft or lobes. By checking all 4 lobes you can set the gap for optimum if there are differences in the readings.

Mon Jul 17, 2006 7:38 am

:D Thanks Guys :!: Its great to be able to return some of the help I have been given over the last three years :!: The only reason I was able to do this is all the help I have been given. The first time I did it I tryed to change it without taking the distributor off. Then I pulled the dritributor off at the end of the distributor. Getting that back bolt off was a pain. This way I was shown seems to be the best. By taking off the whole distributor assembly as long as T shaft does not come out it only goes in correct or 180 degrees out no gears to mess with and the bolts are fairly easy to get to.

Eugene would that light machine tool oil be my air tool oil or marvel mystery oil :!:

Thanks Billy

Mon Jul 17, 2006 12:10 pm

The oil in the felt lubricates the advance pivot (bushing).

I use 30 wt non-detergent oil. Because it's cheap, dollar store. That is what I put in the oil can to lubricate pivots, etc..

Airtool oil would work just as well. A couple drops of engine oil would do just as well.

Eugene

Re: How To Set Points

Mon Feb 27, 2012 8:59 pm

Very informative, all these years I've been replacing the points and condeser while the distributor is still in place.. This method make replacement much easier..

Re: How To Set Points

Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:14 pm

Makes it look so easy, Thanks Cowboy!

Re: How To Set Points

Mon Apr 22, 2013 11:19 am

WOW ! Thank you ! I would have messed it up, will try it out soon.

Baldwindiesel
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