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Something like this works well. Some of us like to attach straps or chains to the rear as well.
In the middle of every difficulty lies opportunity. - Albert Einstein
Deep South CubFest
February 13 & 14, 2015
Welcome aboard, and as you can tell we love pictures. Be sure to attend a cubfest near you soon. Take Mr. E's advise and head south.
A complete restoration will depend entirely on any number of things. First will depend on your definition of "restoration" is!! Things like the condition of the engine, transmission, tires will have a great effect on cost. Wether you do the work yourself or hire it out can change things drastically. Before you start buying too much, do a bit of homework and shop around. Things like the battery box, hood doglegs and grille can be found easily, but you often get what you pay for.
Get the tractor running good first, enjoy it a while, get to know the ends and out of it before you break it down to restore.
Yeah I guess it could change some things. I'm just so ready to get it back to the condition grandpa was trying so hard to get it too. I'm planning on getting to work on it this weekend and flush all the fluids out of her, and get new filters and new fresh oil and see if she won't crank up. The back tires are in good (driveable) condition, the front tires will need to be replaced. It will go into each of the gears, not whether they'll work and driveable I'm not sure. What type of fluid does the rear axle take? I see that it has a small leak back there and I'm going to need a new gasket for it.
As I mentioned earlier,
You might want to spend some time getting familiar with your 49 Cub via the McCormick Farmall Cub Operator's Manual 5-1-49, (just click the link and it will take you to the Manual on the Server) and you will find the Lubrication Section beginning on page 14. Here is the Lube Guide
Follow the advise to change the fluids and then use it to assess it for leaks, etc. Often times the transmission is overfull, either through uninformed overfilling or from condensation forming through temperature changes. Either way an overfull condition will leak out past the axle seals where the axles go into the transmission. They are designed to stop splashing, NOT an overfull condition. You will know when you drain the tranny if you get more than 3 1/2 PINTS from it. A proper level will generally stop the leaking.
'60 FH Lo-Boy
'57 FH Cub "Rusty"
'56 FH Cub
(2) '48 Cubs
'75 IH 140 w/1000 loader
C-3 mower, FH Woods 42F, 22 sickle (2), 54A blade, L-54 blade, 194 plow, FH L-38 disk, FH LB disk, 144 cultivators, FH platform carrier
Thank yall so much! This website has been a great gift so far already. I'm determined to get it running and driveable before the Cubfest in February down in Florida. We'll see if this is gonna be an easy tuneup or tear it apart and rebuild it
Welcome from Louisiana. Hope to meet you in Feb at Mr. E's.
1975 cub (LouAnn) serial # 245946, 1941 John Deere Model H
Good judgment comes from experience,
and a lot of that comes from bad judgment. Will Rogers
Assuming it is still original 6v, the battery is a BCI Group 1. I get mine from NAPA and the part number is BAT5019L. This particular battery fits well in the battery box. Regardless of where you purchase your battery, make sure it is not too tall. Some of the 6v Group 1 boxes are tall enough such that the posts will short out against the inside top of the battery box.
Front tires are 4.00-12 tractor type.
1948 Cub w/ snowplow
thank you! I got a 6volt from Advance Auto, and I also got 3qts of SAE 30 Quaker State oil. Tomorrow my father and I are going to go out there and drain the oil, get a new oil filter, (if their common to find), drain the gas out, and see if we can't fire her up.
Oil filter is a NAPA 1153. It comes with a gasket.
Charlie, in order for more people to see you posts and updates, start a thread in the "Farmall Cub" section of the site. Looking forward to hearing about the progress!!
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