what is it and.....

[Indy4570]

yes I mean for this to be in this section. I know it is for a cadet. But what is there out there? is there simply no room for something like this in the shape of the castings as we know it? I have seen a hydro something on a 140 to slow them down incredibly. I have seen mention of some sort of slowdown for the trenching attachments. I have seen many types of Sherman transmissions, and others. I myself own a Hupp Dual Drive in a Ferguson TO20. I am curious, whats out there. Could something like this danco drive be made to fit, has it been done? Did they ever make a HI/LO cadet tranny that might work? I have 2 of the old Sears Roper Hi/LO trans-axles just waiting to be made into some way cool articulated lawn beast

I had never seen one of these and its way out of my area, it just prompted some pondering is all

https://maine.craigslist.org/grd/d/cub- ... 76214.html

[Urbish]

The only item I know of to slow down a Cub is a Howard Despeeder. There are lots of posts on this site regarding it.

[Rick Prentice]

Years ago I saw a brochure with a transplanter mounted on the rear of a cub. The unit had a hydraulic motor coupled to the right final(where the planter sprocket attaches) and it used something else as a pump with some sort of flow control. Maybe TM has something in their brochure section showing this unit. Seems like there was 2 people setting on seats handling the plants.
Rick

[Rick Prentice]

Oops, looks like the new TM doesn't have the brochure section.

[AL A]

that's a Danco creeper gear and clutch set up for a cub cadet original. very much needed to run a snow blower on an original..

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Among other things, I question whether that clutch would stand the strain a standard cub would put on it. A cub can weigh as much as 2,000 pounds depending on weights and attachments, where a cadet weighs 800 to 900 pounds, and the engine has considerably less torque. The trencher speed reducer actually replaces the torque tub as I remember, or else requires serious modification to the torque tube and transmission shaft, and when engaged slows the cub down so much it is useless for anything other than the trencher when it is engaged.

The Howard CD6 Despeeder mounts between the final drive and the transmission and was intended for use with the Howard L28 Rotovator. It reduces the cub speed by approximately 1/2, but does have warnings that it is to be used only to reduce speed not to increase pull. I learned why one day, but it was not intentional. They are great for mowing in big high weeds, etc where you need less speed while keeping mower running at full speed.

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viewtopic.php?t=81280

[AL A]

John, this bolts in front of the transmission. fairly stout unit. I'm guessing 2 to 1 reduction. I've used mine with some extreme loads at our local tractor pull. The clutch does hold up well considering a 7 or 8 hp kohler is providing the torque. It is needed for speed reduction tilling or snow blowing just like your big cub with your Howard de-speeder when you run your tiller set-up. Up in my neck of the woods, I've seen some crazy asking prices for this set up.

[gitractorman]

I think that IH realized the issue with the Cub and 100/130/140 tractors when the Cub Cadet came out, and they made improvements to the driveline to allow installation of a creeper drive. It would be hard to do on a Cub because the drive shaft is mounted in the rear differential, and goes all the way through the torque tube to the clutch. I've often wondered if you did take a Cub Cadet transmission, could you make an adaptor to install the creeper drive then bolt it to the torque tube of a Cub? The problem then becomes how do you support the drive shaft in the torque tube?

If you look at the transmission on a number series 154/185/184 tractor, it is MUCH more like the driveline in a Cub Cadet than it is like the original Cub, although the heritage and size of the number series is much closer to the original Cub. Here they kind of did what I suggested, used the Cub Cadet transmission, with the creeper drive bolted to the front of the tranny, but they use a drive shaft like on the Cub Cadet tractors with rag joints. It also happens to be a weak point in the number series tractors, often breaking the bolt that pins the drive shaft to the input shaft of the transmission, but overall it's basically what I described above. The big difference though between the number series and the original Cub is the use of a frame to support the engine and transmission, rather than the engine/torque tube/transmission alone.

Anyway, I'm sure that something could be done, and it's likely that you could cobble something together if you pulled apart some Cub Cadets/Number Series/Cubs, and did a little farmyard engineering, but in the end it's likely not going to hold up well.