hydraulic pump leak?

[Rob in NH]

I checked the oil on my 67 cub and its way overfilled . Can the pump leak when its just sitting? I'm hoping i don't have to rebuild the pump.

[Slim140]

Check the touch control and see if it’s full.

[coppersmythe]

if the seal was really shot ? seems like it could , not sure on that one , but i'm in the same boat . t/c started slowly getting weak , especially when hot . stopped working . oil a good bit above fill line, t/c low on fluid . coppersmythe...................

[Waif]

Gaining oil in crankcase ,tells of an o-ring leaking. Mine seemed to gain just setting , but if it leaks ,it leaks. It won't heal by itself.
Not a major undertaking to replace.
The "quad " type o-ring has good reviews as a replacement. My pump received one a while back and all is well.
Pump shaft that it seats on needs inspected to be sure it does not have a groove worn deep enough to allow leaking below/ inside the ring.

[Glen]

Hi,
The Cub owner's manual says the Touch Control arms should be in the rear, or down position when you check the fluid. Then it should be full to the filler plug hole.
The fluid rises in the Touch Control as the arms go to the rear position, there is an air space in the top of the unit, if you fill it with the arms ahead, you will over fill the unit.

[inairam]

here is a very long and detailed post that covers the rebuilding and updating the hydraulic pump.

There are a few different configurations and seals used over as you can see from the photos.

http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewto ... hilit=seal

[Willy]

I put the quad ring in mine and no problems so far, but it's only been a couple of months. The correct size is a 112 and I used a buna-one. I did have a problem with getting it onto the pump drive shaft as there is (was) a sharp edged step on the shaft that it was having to slide over. The quad ring lips kept twisting trying to go over it. I took a dremel grindstone and ground a very slight bevel just bigger than a hair to the sharp corner on the step and that did the trick on keeping from twisting.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Willy, I have also had to take the sharp edge off a couple pumps with my Dremel, but I used one of the drum sanding disks. I have had one of the 4 sided or X style whichever you want to call them o-rings in one fo my cubs that had a pretty bad groove for over 3 years so far. I do use an abrasive buff wheel in my Dremel to smooth the area of the groove when replacing an O-ring. They frequently have a sharp lip in the bottom of the groove that will frequently cut a standard o-ring. The abrasive buff is great to smooth that out.

[Willy]

John, good idea on the sanding disc. All that I had handy at the time was grind stone set, so I used the finest one I had and removed just enough to take off that sharp corner. Basically, just kissed it with the stone all the way around. I probably should have mentioned that.

[Brodalick]

I read somewhere on this forum that the rods can be removed from the hydraulic box by disconnecting them from the arms and pulling forward (sorry for all the incorrect terms, stuff is still new to me). Is this so? I have a leak from the top rod and I am thinking it is an o-ring. Would love yo replace it without having to disassemble the entire box. And should I replace the leather boots with rubber or back with leather.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Brodalick, if you are referring to the man piston which I believe is the top one, it is not that simple. There is a pisotn on that rod that has to be unbolted form the other end to get things out, so you are looking at removing the unit and taking the head off. At that point I would suggest a general overhaul. You can get the kit from TM Tractor, or from your local dealer, but you need the number off the TC block first. If you have a later TC block the number may be under the Hooded part on the front.

[Brodalick]

Yeah that's what I was afraid of. I did not think it was going to be quite that simple. Thanks