Stripped implement bolt hole

[Jim in SC]

Well, yeah - I would take it to a machine shop for that work! I wouldn't attempt something like that with a DeWalt hand drill!

But..I'm not splitting the tractor just to fix a stripped bolt hole either! If the machine shop can't do it while the Cub is standing on four wheels, well - we'll figure out something else.

You can do it with a Milwaukee

HAHAHAHA!

[Dale Finch]

I did a Super A final implement bolt hole (HeliCoil) by hand, laying on my back on a concrete floor...and I'm female! You should be able to do it! It helps to have someone watching to keep the drill lined up.

[tmays]

I did a Super A final implement bolt hole (HeliCoil) by hand, laying on my back on a concrete floor...and I'm female! You should be able to do it! It helps to have someone watching to keep the drill lined up.

I’ve done it, also. Would recommend a jig, but didn’t have one. Start with the smallest bit that takes a small amount of material and work up to right size. If you use the size bit for the helicoil starting out, the outer edge of the hole may get a slight wallering. And yes, take care, because it can be hard on the wrist

[Rick Spivey]

One last option, but not really any better than the keenest type inserts. We used to repair "wallowed out" threaded holes by drilling for a larger threaded hole, insert a solid threaded plug of steel, then drill and tap that back to the original size. You should also drill a very small hole at the thread line of the plug, and install a pin, which won't let the plug back out.

[Super A]

One last option, but not really any better than the keenest type inserts. We used to repair "wallowed out" threaded holes by drilling for a larger threaded hole, insert a solid threaded plug of steel, then drill and tap that back to the original size. You should also drill a very small hole at the thread line of the plug, and install a pin, which won't let the plug back out.

I need to show you some holes in a Super A clutch housing I've been tinkering on. It's a MESS. I feel like what you describe is what I will have to have done.

Al

[coppersmythe]

guys ( and "girls" if dale is watching) thank you for your input , there will be a certain amount of "stress" on the repair . it will be on a high and wide . the wheels will be turned out as far as possible , and 5" extenders added to that . it is almost 7 feet wide and yes , its not the dress that makes it look wide .coppersmythe.................................................edit :I think i should have mentioned the unusual situation

[Frozenstate]

Your over thinking this. I have put in way more helicoils and thread inserts than I can remember. I never had any problem using any brand of drill. The machine shop thing is way overkill. Just get a kit that looks good to you, follow the instructions and you will have threads stronger than the old cast iron. When racing go carts with muckluck engines you striped the intake and exhaust bolts out before even starting it for the first time, drill it out, tap it, a little red loctite and away you went and the exhaust never came loose again. It is to easy.

[coppersmythe]

i want to thank everyone who has contributed to my dilemma . my concern was it being a high and wide , ALMOST 7 FEET WIDE . the stress on the left axle final with two of the bolts stripped . the right side is fine. i'm not sure how bad they are "stripped out " . my plan is to make it a parade tractor , no "work" stress , but , i will not know where it ends up after me . i dont want to send trouble to the next guy . man, its wide , coppersmythe............................................

[Clownfish]

I have put threaded inserts, solid and helicoil, in implement bolt holes using a “DeWalt.” The hardest part was always drilling the hole prior to tapping it for the insert. The drill bit grabs on the existing threads and I couldn’t make any progress without locking the clutch on the drill. With a locked clutch the torque on your wrist is pretty severe when the bit “grabs”. I always end up with a sore wrist. Does anyone have a technique to prevent or lessen this problem? I have tried starting with a smaller bit and working up but that mostly resulted in going through the same problem with each bit. Bob McCarty showed me how to use a piece of emory cloth when enlarging a hole with a drill but it doesn’t work for a threaded hole.

[Matt Kirsch]

The concern was expressed that the threads seemed temporary. They're no more temporary than the original threads if you think about it. For one thing the new final threads are carbon steel instead of cast, so they are stronger and longer-wearing right off the bat. For another thing, the threads in the cast that the insert threads into are larger in diameter and (sometimes) coarser, meaning that they are stronger as well.

It's key to use the right kind of bolts and keep them tight, to prevent the wallowing from the get-go.

[brewzalot]

With a locked clutch the torque on your wrist is pretty severe when the bit “grabs”. I always end up with a sore wrist. Does anyone have a technique to prevent or lessen this problem?

When having trouble use a " guide " to keep from grabbing (and it helps keep the drill bit straight) . In the case of the holes Lorisfarmer is drilling, I would suggest using a pc of 2x4 (hardwood is better). Drill two holes in it, one the size of your drill bit as the guide, the other the size needed to bolt the block to the tractor. Center the guide over the first hole, bolt it down, drill it, remove guide, tap it,install insert, swap it around and do the other hole.You can even make a guide the size of your tap if you want to help that get started straight. It all depends on your comfort level and experience.

Just keeping the drill bit a little straighter greatly reduces the grab when drilling larger holes.
Personally, I never lock the drill on, but keep just the tip of my trigger finger on the switch so you can get off it quickly if it does grab.

[Clip]

I try to use a step bit when the hole geometry allows. It doesn't cut as aggressively and the next larger diameter is centered by the one before. Don't think it'll work in this case unless you can find the proper step/depth.