Clutch....

[couchsachraga]

A few years back a new clutch was put in my parents cub (purchased in '65 by my grandfather, but it may be a '63). From the get-go the clutch felt "clumpy" to me and not quite right. It was adjusted correctly at the pedal.

Plowing the other day they lost all clutching. They tried readjusting, but there just wasn't enough throw. I pulled the inspection plate, and there was plenty of black gunk all over the place (I'm guessing the throwout bearing... ) and the bearing barely touched the clutch fingers (which explained why not much was happening).

I've attached a few pictures of what it looks like now (I split it, figuring a new clutch was in order).

A few questions:
1). Where is the best place to order a new clutch? Steiner? I want quality parts as I'd prefer not to split it again any time soon!
2). Any thoughts on what may have gone wrong? I didn't replace it last time (it was during a restoration by someone who knows far more than me about Cubs!)

Thank you for any and all help!!

[Slim140]

TM Tractor at the bottom of the page is the best place to order one, I think.

[LRiddle]

That throw out bearing has seen better days for sure, but before you order more parts than you need, check over the pressure plate and the clutch disk. Chances are the plate is in good shape and won't need replaced. I believe a lot of guys have found out that the new parts aren't as high as quality as the old parts and you may be better off replacing only what is necessary. In this case you may just need a new graphite bearing.

Edit: fixed wording.

[couchsachraga]

Good point Luke - When I glanced over it the pressure plate, etc.. looked fine. I should have measured the distance to the fingers. I don't recall the clutch slipping, so perhaps all we need is a throwout bearing (looking at my past logins looks like it may have been in there 5 years...).

[ScottyD'sdad]

That throw out bearing has seen better days for sure, but before you order more parts than you need, check over the pressure plate and the clutch disk. Chances are the plate is in good shape and won't need replaced. I believe a lot of guys have found out that the new parts aren't as high as quality as the new parts and you may be better off replacing only what is necessary. In this case you may just need a new graphite bearing.

Ditto. May just need the TO bearing.
Ed

[Lt.Mike]

As said in every other clutch related post “soak the new throwout bearing in some cheap oil before you install it”.

[couchsachraga]

I did notice that in the other clutch threads:)

Any specific recommendations for oil and how long? 3 in 1 could get pricy, but I have motor oil (multiple grades of course!), transmission oil, and ATF around.

Speaking of which... I had to drain the hydraulic lines to split it of course... if I understand correctly it is 10w motor oil?

[Eugene]

Uneven wear on throw out bearing and on the pressure plate fingers. Also scuff marks on the pressure plate spring bracket.

Check the throw out bearing bracket and pin for wear.

[staninlowerAL]

Hydraulic refill should be CaseIH HyTran or compatible. Originally it was 10 wt ND oil.

[Glen]

Hi,
I agree that it's probably better to reuse the pressure plate, if it is still good.
You probably want to take it off and look at the clutch disc, while the tractor is split. It might need a new disc, if the lining is worn thin.
Below is a listing at TM Tractor for a new disc, you can see in the bottom pic on the page, the lining only sticks up above the rivets a small amount. Not all lining has the notches like theirs does, some was smooth.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/cl/521fp.htm

Tighten the 6 pressure plate bolts evenly when putting the pressure plate on again, a little at a time.

You should check the pilot bushing for wear, below is a page from the Cub service manual showing the sizes of the shaft and the clearance.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 005-02.jpg

Grease the pilot bushing before putting the Cub together.

The throwout bearing holder should feel solid side to side, with no play at the top, not worn or loose. It has to hold the throwout bearing in a fixed position. It should be free moving forward and back though.
The long pin at the top can wear, and the holes in the holder wear. TM Tractor has new parts if needed.

Below is a pic of a new throwout bearing, the material sticks out 5/16".

[couchsachraga]

Thank you all very much!

The cub is an hour away (in pieces in their garage;) ), but hopefully I can inspect things soon and get parts ordered. The TO bearing is very wobbly / sloppy, so I suspect I'll need to remedy that as well as a new TO bearing.

I know I should remove the pressure plate and inspect the lining, but without an alignment tool I'm a little hesitant. That said, I do have a few alignment tools kicking around from other transmissions; who knows, one may work.

[Glen]

Hi,
The guys on here say TM Tractor has good parts. Some of them are genuine Case IH, they say in the listings if they are.
Below are the clutch holder pin and holder.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/cl/5327fp.htm

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/cl/112fp.htm

Below is the TM Tractor clutch section.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/cl/cl_001newparts.htm

Case IH Hy-Tran fluid is used for the Touch Control. Case IH dealers sell it. There are other brands that are supposed to be usable. Check the package to be sure it works with IH systems before buying it.
Using motor oil in the Touch Control has not been in the manual since the early 1950's I think.

TM Tractor has a new gasket and o-rings for the Touch Control tubes if you need those.

It looks like it has had metal hitting the pressure plate in your pic above.
If it was a replacement throwout bearing that was in the Cub, it might have been too soft a material, and worn out. Just a guess.

The guys here say to set the pressure plate finger height carefully, they have said 1 1/4" from the surface below them to the surface where the throwout bearing touches. They should all 3 be the same height.
Below is a pic of where to measure. They are measured with the plate assembled on the flywheel, not off, like it is in the pic.

[Eugene]

I do have a few alignment tools kicking around from other transmissions; who knows, one may work.

If one fits the pilot shaft but is a bit loose in the clutch disk, wrap or two of electricians tape on the alignment tool.

No alignment tool works, install the clutch disk, slightly tighten the pressure plate to hold the disk in place. Move the clutch disk as you eye ball the alignment, you should be able to get it spot on. If the alignment is off a bit, a little wiggling, install the torque tube to the engine. Hand hole, now tighten up the 6 bolt holding the pressure plate to the fly wheel.

Lub the pilot shaft bushing before coupling the parts together.

Edited for spelling.

[Rick Spivey]

I know I should remove the pressure plate and inspect the lining, but without an alignment tool I'm a little hesitant. That said, I do have a few alignment tools kicking around from other transmissions; who knows, one may work.

I've also used a wooden stick, or dowel, wrapped with painters tape, or whatever you have on hand. Or, TM sells a plastic alignment tool fairly inexpensively, you could order it at the same time.

[couchsachraga]

Parts ordered from TM tractor this morning (including alignment tool...).

Thank you all for your thoughts - it is really appreciated. I'll let you know how it all goes.